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Good Taste: Sardine sandwich at Corner Foodery

Bottle Shop Meets New Sandwich Master The Foodery once set the bar for Philadelphia's mix-and-match beer bottle shops with a vast wall of fridges brimming with hundreds of high-end brews. Its latest outlet - the Corner Foodery near Rittenhouse Square - ta

The Seared Sardine Sandwich at The Corner Foodery, with some of the 600-plus beers in refrigerators behind.
The Seared Sardine Sandwich at The Corner Foodery, with some of the 600-plus beers in refrigerators behind.Read moreMICHAEL S. WIRTZ / Staff Photographer
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The Foodery once set the bar for Philadelphia's mix-and-match beer bottle shops with a vast wall of fridges brimming with hundreds of high-end brews.

Its latest outlet - the Corner Foodery near Rittenhouse Square - takes the bottle shop to a new level again, but with a handcrafted sit-down menu to accompany those bottles, 700 of which owner Tony Rim has stocked in the gleaming fridges.

But chef John Taus, of Corner Restaurant fame, has created his own draw, a serious sandwich board built from largely house-made charcuterie, from the fennel sausage to the exceptional mortadella that he fries up with an egg.

My favorite, though, was the sandwich of house-cured Spanish sardines, seared and set on a seeded bun with pickled cauliflower florets and spreadable "nduja" Calabrian salami.

With each perfect bite of intense salty, tangy, spicy zing, it was a comfort to know there were a few beers available to wash it down.

- Craig LaBan
 
Seared sardine sandwich, $10, the Corner Foodery, 1710 Sansom St., 215-567-1500; thecornerfoodery.com

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