The changes came fast and furious to 10 Arts last fall with the departure of its celeb chef, Jennifer Carroll, followed soon after by an official separation from its creator, Le Bernardin's Eric Ripert.

The installation of Nathan Volz as chef, though, proves the Ritz-Carlton hasn't ceded its culinary ambitions quite yet.

A recent lunch was more or less on par with my previous 10 Arts experiences, but with more emphasis on medium-size sharing plates, local cheese, and charcuterie.

Try this assorted meat platter, which features some well-made in-house efforts, including a spreadable lamb shank "rillettes" inlaid with a pickled ramp, pink slices of porchetta di testa (pure pig's-head goodness), and two takes on southern country ham (I especially loved the deeply-smoked "Father's" from Gatton in Kentucky) that are worth the trip alone.

- Craig LaBan
 
Charcuterie plate, $15, 10 Arts, Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 10 S. Broad St., 215-523-8273.