Drink: The Brooklyn

For most of two centuries, cocktails were lovingly shaken or stirred to order.

In the last few years, however, Philly has seen a revolution in ready-made tipple, first with Negronis on draft at Alla Spina, and now with a handful of places - including Little Nonna's and Pizzeria Vetri - that simply pop the cap off tiny bottles and pour.

Making large batches and sealing up the elixir with home-brew equipment is a clever approach for the tight quarters and fast-paced environment of Pizzeria Vetri.

But make no mistake - plenty of love and care was taken to assure that the contents are prime.

Of the three choices here, I loved the Brooklyn, Steve Wildy's bittersweet take on the classic Manhattan riff, that's poured over a giant ice cube and a sublime Fabbri amarena cherry. The handwritten tag says it contains Bulleit rye, with dry vermouth, Luxardo Maraschino, and Ramazzotti amaro. It might as well say: "Drink Me."

- Craig LaBan
The Brooklyn in bottle, $12, Pizzeria Vetri, 1939 Callowhill St., 215-600-2629.