Chinatown is the land of a thousand ducks, lacquered to a sweet mahogany shine and hanging in rows behind windows for the ulimate hunger-inducing tease. These roasted, bone-in birds (rather than boneless, crispy-skinned Peking duck) are the primary ingredients for many of the neighborhood's best dishes. But who makes the best? We gathered a flock of contenders and nibbled them side-by-side for a Chinatown "duck-off." My overall favorites are listed in order, but for the ultimate duck feast, I vote for a combo plate of Siu Kee's bird with Sang Kee's gravy.

- Craig LaBan
1. Siu Kee Duck House

111 N. 10th St., 215-922-3075;

The skin was a more honeyed hue than mahogany brown, and had the best balance of delicate snap and creamy fat. The velvety meat was by far the most tender, with vivid flavor. The gravy was herbaceously intense, but borderline salty, keeping it from perfection.

2. Sang Kee Peking Duck House

238 N. Ninth St., 215-925-7532;

Admirably juicy, with leaner skin, though not as tender or richly flavored as Siu Kee's. Sang Kee's gravy, though, was the tasting's best, dark, sweet, and swirling with star anise and well-rounded spice.

3. Ting Wong

138 N. 10th St., 215-928-1883 or 215-928-1880

These relatively tender ducks had the crispiest skin, but almost to a fault, with a crackery brown shell dominating the rest of the flavor. The omission of a natural gravy (as opposed to the mixed sauce packed with ours) was a big turn-off.

4. M Kee

1002 Race St., 215-238-8883

An adequate bird, but not as juicy or as carefully chopped as the others, with a salty jus.

5. Wong Wong

941 Race St., 215-928-8822

Scrawny and dry, Wong Wong's birds were among the cheapest of the group, and tasted that way. The distinct Sichuan peppercorn taste to gravy was a little harsh.