The small cocktail list at High Street on Market is brimming with fascinating touches, from the bread-and-butter-infused applejack in the tangy "Of the Farm" to the double-dare broccoli rabe bitterness of "Trip to the Chinese Doctor," which has been characterized, charitably, as a "polarizing" drink.

Personally, there are enough cutting-edge flavors on the food menu here that a cocktail challenge isn't needed, too.

Thankfully, there is the comfort of "Sailor's Warning," whose deep amber El Dorado rum anchors an easy island groove. It gets interesting, though: a splash of Zucca rhubarb amaro and a triple dose of citrus lend a bittersweet tang, tinged with the allspice aromatics of Angostura bitters. A dusting of bay leaf powder is the final note, a reminder of the chef's touch even with the drinks.

In contrast to the Chinese Doctor, Sailor's Warning could be reflagged "Trip to a Caribbean Spa."

- Craig LaBan

Sailor's Warning, $12, High Street on Market, 308 Market St., 215-625-0988;