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Good Taste: Chris Kearse matures and gains another bell

Young chef matures, and gains another bell There was never any doubting the talent that fueled Christopher Kearse's artful modern French cooking at Will BYOB. But like many young chefs in the throes of avant-garde techniques, his early enthusiasm often tra

Whole Roasted Hen of the Woods Mushroom as served at Will BYOB, 1911 E. Passyunk Ave., Philadelphia. ( DAVID M WARREN / Staff Photographer )
Whole Roasted Hen of the Woods Mushroom as served at Will BYOB, 1911 E. Passyunk Ave., Philadelphia. ( DAVID M WARREN / Staff Photographer )Read more

There was never any doubting the talent that fueled Christopher Kearse's artful modern French cooking at Will BYOB.

But like many young chefs in the throes of avant-garde techniques, his early enthusiasm often translated into overwrought plates with a few too many flourishes that hindered, rather than helped. That was no longer the case, however, at a fantastic recent meal.

After two years of honing, Kearse's presentations are no less gorgeous.

But every intricate touch amplified the central themes, rather than distracting. Foie gras mousse enriched a bar of rabbit rillettes accented by wine-poached figs. Citrus-caramelized Belgian endive and licorice called out Sichuan spice on the duck. An entire hen of the woods, meanwhile, was cooked to two striking textures - buttery-crisp across a pan-roasted face of flattened fronds scented with sumac and rose hips, lusciously fleshy and moist at its heart, beneath which a Madeira caramel and smoked ricotta smear amplified its earthy savor.

It just so happens a cluster of that mushroom is shaped like a bell.

Will BYOB can now count three of its own.

Whole Hen of the Woods, $14

Will BYOB
1911 E. Passyunk Ave.
215-271-7683
willbyob.com