MEAT and potatoes offer a hearty entry into the big-eating, rib-sticking world of chef Ben Ford.

STANDING RIB ROAST

For the roast:

One 7-bone standing prime rib roast (16 to 18 pounds), trimmed and tied

10 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

Kosher salt and fresh coarsely ground black pepper

For the jus:

2 cups red wine

10 fresh thyme sprigs

2 fresh rosemary sprigs

2 cups veal or beef stock

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

To prepare the roast, remove it from the refrigerator 30 minutes prior to cooking time and preheat the oven to 450°F.

Pat the roast dry with paper towels. Using a paring knife, make small slits 1 1/2 inches apart and deep enough to fit a slice of garlic horizontally across the fat cap and up the sides of the roast. Slip 1 garlic slice into each slit, making sure the garlic is fully submerged. Smear the butter over the roast and season the roast liberally with salt and pepper.

Lay the roast ribs down in a heavy roasting pan. (There's no need to use a rack; the rib bones act as a rack to keep the meat off the surface of the pan.) Roast for 30 minutes.

Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F. Continue to roast for 2 1/2 to 3 hours (1 1/2 (2 hours for a smaller, 5-rib roast), until an instant-read thermometer, when inserted into the thickest part of the roast, registers 120°F for rare, 130°F for medium-rare.

Using clean dishtowels, transfer the roast to a cutting board, preferably one with a moat to catch the juices. Let the roast rest while you make the jus, at least 15 minutes..

To make the jus, put the roasting pan on the stove over two burners, both on high. Add the wine and scrape the bottom of the pan to release any browned bits.

Add the thyme and rosemary, bring to a boil, and cook until the liquid reduces by one-third, about 3 minutes. Add the stock and bring back to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for about 5 minutes, until the jus thickens slightly. Stir in the salt and pepper.

Pour the jus through a fine-mesh strainer into a sauceboat and discard the solids. Keep warm.

Slice the meat against the grain, 1-inch thick or to the thickness you prefer. Sprinkle sea salt over the meat and serve with jus on the side. Serves 18 to 20..

- From "Taming the Feast," by Ben Ford

HOLIDAY POTATOES

3 pounds small round potatoes, peeled and rinsed under cold water

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

8 slices of smoked bacon

1/3 cup olive oil

12 whole garlic cloves

4-5 fresh rosemary sprigs

8-10 fresh thyme sprigs

1 bay leaf

Put the potatoes in a large pot with water to cover by 2 inches. Add 1 tablespoon salt per quart of water. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook until they are beginning to be tender but are not cooked through, 6 to 7 minutes. Drain the potatoes in a colander and let them rest for a few minutes.

Preheat the oven to 425 °F.

Combine the oil, garlic, rosemary, thyme and bay leaf in a small bowl. Drizzle over the potatoes and give the pan a good shake to coat them.

Transfer the potatoes to a large roasting pan or two baking dishes. Layer sliced bacon and herbs over the potatoes, season with 3/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Roast the potatoes for 30 minutes, until they are lightly golden; they still won't be fully cooked.

Return the potatoes to the oven until they are very crisp and deep golden brown, 40 to 50 minutes. Serves 8.

- Recipe from chef Ben Ford