Back when I held the keys to a French chateau's cellar - more than two decades ago, as a stagiaire at a cooking school in Burgundy - I had my first real wine obsession: a 1989 Premier Cru Givry from Joblot.

That's not to be confused with the more prestigious Gevrey-Chambertin, a Côtes de Nuits red well beyond my then-student budget.

But hey, this lesser-known pinot from the Côtes Chalonnaise was Henry IV's favorite (his mistress lived there). So the sheer delicacy of my first real Burgundy - strawberries, violets, and cellar dust - made a big first impression.

And then?

Givry and I almost never crossed paths in the States again until recently, when the entire 2011 lot from Antonin Rodet was bought by Pennsylvania.

It may not be quite what I remember. But it shows more than enough similarities to give me warm flashbacks, its dark red fruits wrapped in aromas of flower shop and earth, with a hint of cocoa and spice.

At less than $20, it is a very worthy Burgundy bargain. - Craig LaBan

Antonin Rodet Givry Premier Cru 2011, $18.99 in Pennsylvania (code 33321)