Makes 48 dumplings

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3 medium dried shiitake mushrooms

2 tablespoons canola oil

1 medium-large shallot, chopped, about 1/2 cup

1 tablespoon finely chopped ginger

1 large clove garlic, finely chopped

1/2 cup diced parsnip

1/2 cup diced celery

About 1/4 teaspoon salt

Sesame oil

Six ounces roasted kabocha squash, diced and/or chopped, about 2 cups

About 48 wonton, dumpling or pot sticker skins

Cornstarch

Soy sauce

Unseasoned rice vinegar or Chinkiang vinegar

Chile oil

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1. Place dried mushrooms in a bowl. Cover with boiling water; use small plate to submerge under water. Let sit until reconstituted; you may have to drain and replenish boiling water. Trim and chop. Set aside. (Alternatively, you can soak in water overnight.)

2. Heat oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add shallot and fry, stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes until fragrant and turning a golden brown. Add ginger and garlic; cook until aromatic. Then add parsnip, celery and mushrooms. Sprinkle on salt, cook for several minutes, until partway cooked. Taste a piece to test. If needed, splash in water or any leftover mushroom-soaking liquid to coax the cooking. When done, drizzle on some sesame oil, stir to combine, then remove from the heat.

3. Add squash, mix, then taste. Season with extra salt as needed for a savory-sweet flavor. Set aside for about 30 minutes for flavors to develop before using. Makes about 2 cups; it will keep in the refrigerator for a couple of days.

4. Place about 2 teaspoons in center of each wonton wrapper. Moisten edges of skin with water. Fold in half; press edges together with fingertips to seal. Place finished dumplings on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet that has been lightly dusted with cornstarch. Repeat with wonton skins and filling until done. Cover with a damp towel to prevent drying.

5. Cook dumplings: Poach them in a pot of boiling water and remove when they look gauzy and puffy, or steam until the skins are translucent, or pan-fry in a skillet with a little water. Serve warm with soy sauce, vinegar and chile oil.

- Adapted from cookbook author Andrea Nguyen

Per Dumpling:

107 calories; 3 grams protein; 20 grams carbohydrates; no sugar; 1 gram fat; 3 milligrams cholesterol; 332 milligrams sodium; 1 grams dietary fiber.