Makes 4 servings

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11/2 pounds russet potatoes (about 2 large or 4 small)

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 egg, beaten (beat whole egg, then pour half out)

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons tipo 00 flour, or 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour, plus some for dusting

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1. To make the gnocchi, combine the potatoes (unpeeled) and salted water to cover by 1 inch in a saucepan. Cover, bring the water to a boil over high heat, and boil until a knife slides easily in and out of the potatoes, 25 to 30 minutes.

2. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the potatoes to a cutting board. Immediately peel off and discard the skins. (Wear gloves if the potatoes feel too hot to handle.) Coarsely chop the potatoes, and then pass them through a potato ricer or food mill fitted with the fine die onto a large, lightly floured cutting board or smooth work surface, covering the board or surface with potatoes. (Spreading out the potatoes helps excess moisture evaporate.) Let the potatoes stand for 5 minutes, and then sprinkle the Parmesan and nutmeg evenly over the top. Season the potatoes with salt and pepper and then use a bench scraper to cut all of the seasonings into the potatoes, repeatedly scraping and mixing the ingredients until well-blended. Taste the mixture, adding more salt and pepper until it tastes good to you. Use the bench scraper to stir in the egg. Finally, gently stir in the flour just until the dough comes together.

3. Gently knead the dough just until it has a uniform consistency, about 1 minutes. Be careful not to overwork the dough or it will develop excess gluten, which will make the gnocchi tough. Flour the bench scraper or a knife and cut the dough into 4 pieces. Roll each piece on the floured surface into a long rope about 1/2 inch in diameter. Use the floured bench scraper or knife to cut the rope crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces. You can cook the pillows as they are, or you can press your thumb into each piece to create a slight indentation. Or, for the traditional potato gnocchi shape, roll each piece on a lightly floured grooved gnocchi board, pressing one cut side of the dough with your thumb to create a grooved oval shape with a gap in the middle. Let the dough roll around your thumb as you press and roll it on the board. You can also use a clean comb or the tines of a fork to create the grooves. As the gnocchi are formed, transfer them to a generously floured, rimmed baking sheet and shake the baking sheet to dust the gnocchi with the flour.

4. Cover the gnocchi loosely and refrigerate them for up to 8 hours; or freeze them in a single layer and then transfer them to a zipper-lock bag and freeze them for up to 2 weeks. Take the gnocchi straight from the freezer to the boiling water, adding 30 seconds or so the cooking time.

5. Have ready a bowl of ice water. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drop the gnocchi into the boiling water, in batches, if necessary, to prevent crowding, and cover the pot to quickly return the water to a low boil. Adjust the heat so that the water simmers, stirring gently. Cook the gnocchi until springy to the touch and tender throughout, 3 to 5 minutes. Squeeze a dumpling between your fingers. It should have some bounce-back. If it just flattens, the gnocchi are not done yet. Using a spider strainer or slotted spoon, immediately transfer the gnocchi to the ice water and let them sit in the water for 30 seconds to stop the cooking. Transfer the gnocchi to dry kitchen towels and pat them dry.

6. To serve, heat the butter and olive oil in a large nonstick sauté pan over high heat. Add the gnocchi, in batches if necessary to prevent crowding, and sauté them until they are golden brown on both sides, 5 to 8 minutes total. Dish out the sautéed gnocchi onto warmed plates.

- From Mastering Pasta, by Marc Vetri with David Joachim (Ten Speed Press, 2015)

Per Serving (based on 4):

285 calories; 11 grams protein; 51 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams sugar; 4 grams fat; 31 milligrams cholesterol; 150 milligrams sodium; 5 grams dietary fiber.