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Something different: Root-wrapped fish tacos

Barramundi tacos wrapped in sheer sheets of jicama at Tequila's.
Barramundi tacos wrapped in sheer sheets of jicama at Tequila's.Read moreDAVID SWANSON / Staff Photographer

David Suro-Piñera has seen regulars at Tequila's who, for 30 years, have ordered the same thing each time they come to his elegant Locust Street restaurant.

That explains why the tortilla soup, mole poblano, and cochinita pibil are still among the authentic classics that anchor the menu.

But if you graze some of chef Claudio Soto's creative specials, you'll discover Tequila's kitchen has been evolving, too, keeping pace with the contemporary ideas that have appeared in some of Philly's more recent Nuevo Mex entrees.

A hand-made huarache layered with huitlacoche and filet mignon was one recent highlight.

But perhaps most memorable was the veg-forward modern take on the now-ubiquitous fish taco. Instead of traditional corn tortillas (which, by the way, Tequila's now makes in-house for other dishes), these tacos are wrapped in sheer white rounds of jicama root, whose paper thinness allows for both pliance and a delicately juicy crunch.

But the fish inside is also different from the norm – a meaty Australian barramundi bass that gets grilled (instead of fried), then topped with minty herbs, fresh chilies, and a refreshing salsa splashed with mezcal, which floats a subtle whiff of boozy smoke atop another layer of creamy smoke from the light smear of chipotle mayo.

Time for some of those regulars to try something different.

Barramundi jicama tacos, $11.95, Tequila's, 1602 Locust St., 215-546-0181; tequilasphilly.com

    Craig LaBan
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    As a restaurant critic and columnist, I cover the Philadelphia region's culinary stars, from food carts to fine dining, and chronicle the evolution of a dining scene that helps define our identity, one plate at a time.