Discreet Diner: Penang

Despite my affinity for Asian cuisine, I didn't rush over to the new Penang in Maple Shade when it opened in February. I think I just couldn't imagine ordering Pad Thai where I had once been custom-fitted for sneakers.

Fortunately, Penang's interior decorators had far more vision than I do. They've turned the former Jim's Shoes on Route 38 into a sophisticated patio surrounding a rectangular stone pond with statues and lighted fountains. Long black benches sport beautiful red silk pillows. Dim lighting, green plants, and pots of bamboo help transport diners to a world far from the traffic whizzing by outside.

As does the menu.

True to the multicultural mix of Malaysia, Penang's menu reflects Indian and Chinese influences, as well as those of Malaysia's northern neighbor, Thailand.

We started with what both the Web site and menu described as an "all-time favorite": roti canai ($3.95), an Indian-style pancake served with a chicken and potato curry dipping sauce. It was fluffy and light on the inside and crispy on the outside. My dining partner said he could have feasted indefinitely on this appetizer.

I preferred the Thai lettuce wrap ($8.95): strips of chicken and lemongrass, which you encase in leaves of iceberg lettuce and dip in thick, rich peanut sauce.

My partner also tried a soup - thom kha ($5.95), a broth creamy with coconut milk and fragrant with lemongrass and kaffir lime.

It was difficult to select an entree from more than 80 listed. Should we go Thai or Malaysian? Noodles or rice? Poultry, pork, beef or seafood? Like so many Asian restaurants, this Penang, cousin to restaurants of the same name in Edison and West Windsor, overwhelms with options.

After seeking the server's recommendations, I settled on Penang jumbo shrimp ($21.95). Although the menu says all shrimp are served in the shell, the server asked whether I wanted it in or out. I opted for unshelled, which didn't seem to diminish the flavor and sure made the dish easier to eat. Sauteed onions and chili sauce worked together to produce a zesty dish.

My partner chose a house special beef rendang ($13.95), a stew of tender meat cooked in a paste of onion, lemongrass, chili and curry. It was tasty but heavy. We had some left for later.

Neither dish came with rice; we added jasmine-flavored ($0.90). Other options were chicken, coconut and brown rice.

Transport your tastebuds to Southeast Asia with a trip to Penang. You can experience multiple countries in one meal.

480 Route 38 East, Maple Shade.

856-755-0188.

Hours

: Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.

Parking lot

: Yes.

Reservations

: Yes.

Cocktails

: BYOB.

Handicapped accessible

: Yes.

Children's menu

: No.

On the Web

:

» READ MORE: www.penangnj.com

.