Good Taste
Cheese of the Month It would be too much to ask for the creators of the blue cheese-stuffed wonderburger at the Good Dog Bar to trump that novel act at their new place in Northern Liberties, the Swift Half Pub. So instead of more patty trickery, they've just upped the flavor quotient by offering one of the city's best selections of quality cheeses for toppings, from Keen's cheddar to Colston Bassett Stilton.
Cheese of the Month
It would be too much to ask for the creators of the blue cheese-stuffed wonderburger at the Good Dog Bar to trump that novel act at their new place in Northern Liberties, the Swift Half Pub. So instead of more patty trickery, they've just upped the flavor quotient by offering one of the city's best selections of quality cheeses for toppings, from Keen's cheddar to Colston Bassett Stilton.
My new favorite fancy burger cheese, though, is Ardrahan, a semi-soft washed-rind beauty from Mary Burns in Ireland. A dip in brine and an aging in the misty sea air of County Cork lend this cheese an earthy, salty, nutty funk that becomes especially ripe atop hot meat. But unlike creamier washed-rind cheeses (like Epoisses), a firmer slice of Ardrahan doesn't run away. It clings on, lending the burger a swaggering brogue.
Ardrahan, $1.50 as a topping to the half-pound burger, $10, at the Swift Half Pub (1001 N. 2d St., 215-923-4600). Also $24.99 a pound at both Di Bruno Bros. locations (1730 Chestnut St., 215-665-9220; 930 S. Ninth St., 215-922-2876). - Craig LaBan