Cheese of the Month

The "Roaring Forties" evokes the brutal gales that howled along 40° longitude to wreck many a tall ship against tiny King Island between Tasmania and South Australia. So why is the blue cheese named in their honor so sweet and mellow?

Legend has it the straw mattresses from those ill-fated vessels washed ashore and seeded King Island's lush pastures - grasses that now nourish some of the richest milk Down Under. This decadent cow's milk blue is the ultimate proof of that. Wrapped in deep blue wax that keeps the oxidizing tang in check, it is exceptionally smooth and full-flavored with a creamy texture and an almost sweet, nutty finish. It's a perfect happy medium for blue novices and connoisseurs alike.

- Craig LaBan

Roaring Forties blue cheese, $14.99 a pound, at most Whole Foods Markets.