Midwinter is the time to pull out the stockpot and the chili recipes. Vegetarian chili is a wonderful way to win over nonvegetarians and dispel the myth that meatless dishes are boring.
Almost any grain, bean, or vegetable is a winner in a simmering pot of big red.
As Diana Kennedy, a prolific cookbook author and an authority on Mexican cooking, says: "Chili, it seems to me, is one of the few foods that has its own god." I agree.
I make chili using canned or jarred beans instead of dried ones because they take less time to cook and taste just as good. I add a whole grain such as barley, quinoa, or cracked wheat because I like their texture in my chili.
However, I'm a traditionalist in terms of the vegetables I put in the pot. I always use bell peppers, onions, and at least two varieties of hot peppers such as poblanos and jalapeños. But if I see another hot pepper that looks fresh and inviting, I toss it in.
Each type of pepper adds another layer of flavor. Some of the more common varieties you might add include hot Hungarian wax peppers, red Fresnos, or the long green twisted Sicilian peppers available in Italian markets.
I also like smoky flavors, so I add chopped chipotle chilies in adobo that you find canned in the Hispanic section of supermarkets.
I also add some smoked paprika, found almost everywhere these days. You can use any of the premixed chili spice blends found in the supermarket spice aisle, but I make my own mixture of oregano, cumin, and chili powder in the amounts I suggest in the accompanying recipe.
If you think some of your folks won't be happy without meat, make a big pot of the veggie version. Then add cooked ground beef to half of it.
Just for fun, try hollowing out a giant round bread loaf to serve as a bowl and top the chili with shredded cheddar cheese, low-fat sour cream or yogurt, chopped scallions, and chopped cilantro.
Chili tastes way better if you can make it at least a day ahead of serving.
On that topic I leave you with another favorite quote, this time from author John Steele Gordon: "Chili is much improved by having had a day to contemplate its fate."
Steve's Garden Chili
Makes 8 to 10 servings
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1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and minced
2 poblano peppers, seeded and chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon chili powder
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon smoked paprika 2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes with juice
2 cups water, vegetable broth or tomato juice
1/2 cup uncooked dried bulgur wheat
1 cup each: canned black beans, chickpeas, red kidney beans, rinsed and drained
1 to 2 tablespoons minced canned chipotle chili in adobo
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1. Heat oil in a large, nonreactive pot over medium-high heat. Add the onions, all the peppers, the garlic, chili powder, oregano, paprika, and cumin. Saute 5 to 7 minutes until slightly softened and fragrant.
2. Add tomatoes and their juice; water, broth or tomato juice; cracked wheat; all the beans; and the chili in adobo. Stir well.
3. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a slow simmer, and cook, uncovered, 50 minutes to 1 hour, stirring occasionally, until the cracked wheat is tender.
Chef Steve's tips: Although this looks like a lot of ingredients, you simply place them in the pot and stir occasionally. You can top your chili with traditional garnishes such as shredded cheddar cheese, low-fat sour cream or yogurt, chopped scallions, and chopped cilantro. If you have leftovers and you reheat this chili, you may need to add a little water because the beans and cracked wheat will absorb some of the liquid once it cools.
Per serving: 144 calories, 15 percent calories from fat, 2 grams total fat, 0.3 gram saturated fat, no cholesterol, 26 grams carbohydrates, 7 grams total fiber, 5 grams total sugars, 19 grams net carbs, 7 grams protein, 262 milligrams sodium.
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