Ekta adds some spice

The ever-expanding Tiffin franchise has set a high bar for its local Indian competitors to hurdle. But now the also-growing Ekta, a no-frills Indian storefront in Fishtown started by one of Tiffin's founding chefs, Raju Bhattarai, offers a very respectable (and slightly less expensive) option. If anything, Ekta, which recently expanded to a Bryn Mawr location (1003 Lancaster Ave.; 610-581-7070), distinguishes its food with an edgier spice, like the dry and pungent pepper heat of the fresh chiles scattered like green confetti over the hari mirch ka naan flat bread. But Ekta has a softer side, too, as evidenced by its stellar Goan shrimp curry. Inspired by the rich coconut milk broths of South India, this dish brings surprisingly plump and tender crustaceans in a creamy brew that swirls with cumin, cardamom, mustard seeds, and red chile, which, of course, lends just the right touch of heat.

- Craig LaBan

Goan shrimp curry, $12.95, and Hari Mirch Ka Naan, $3, at Ekta, 250 E. Girard Ave., 215-426-2277. Prices are slightly higher in Bryn Mawr; see both menus at www.ektaindianrestaurant.com.