From Peru comes 'pollo a la brasa'

If you want to know why the Peruvian roast chicken called "pollo a la brasa" is so renowned, it's worth a trip to Northeast Philly where the no-frills El Balconcito I at E. Godfrey and Tabor offers a convincing rendition. Owner Rayda Zianderas (who recently opened a second location at 7326 E. Castor) marinates her birds overnight in a garlicky brew of vinegar and Cusqueña beer seasoned with oregano and rosemary. After two hours on the rotisserie, it becomes deeply browned, intensely flavored, and sublimely tender. Served traditionally with fresh fries and a zippy yellow aji amarillo chile sauce for emphasis, a whole chicken ($12) is perfect for splitting with a friend (plus a fantastic seafood ceviche, $12, while you're at it.) The only thing needed at this authentic neighborhood haunt is a good Spanish-English dictionary.

- Craig LaBan
Pollo a la brasa, $12, El Balconcito I, 6588 E. Godfrey Ave., 215-342-2340.