Turn crunchy, tart tomatillos into piquant salsa verde

Tomatillos might look like small, underripe tomatoes beneath their paperlike husks, but unwrap them and you will find firm, slightly sticky flesh with a scent similar to freshly picked herbs.

Though the almost crunchy texture and tart, citrusy flavor are reminiscent of a green tomato and the name means "small tomato" in Spanish, the tomatillo (toe-mah-TEE-yoh) is a separate member of the same nightshade family.

Tomatillos are most often used, raw or cooked (grilled, roasted, or blanched), in salsa verde, a flavorful counterpoint to rich meat and fish. The piquant sauce is great as a dip or in quesadillas, guacamole, or tortilla soup. A spoonful adds zest to salad dressings, pasta sauces, and rice.

Look for firm tomatillos with tight, unblemished husks. They keep for up to three weeks in the refrigerator, loosely stored in the vegetable bin. Just before using, peel off the husks and rinse the tomatillos in warm water to remove the sticky coating underneath. For longer storage, simmer tomatillos in water to cover until soft and freeze in the cooking liquid for up to three months.

Makes 1 cup

2 large tomatillos (6 to 7 ounces each)

2 medium scallions

1 small jalapeno chile

1/4 cup firmly packed fresh cilantro leaves and stems

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 teaspoons fresh lime juice

2 small garlic cloves, pressed or minced

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly ground pepper

1. Husk, rinse, and thickly slice the tomatillos (you should have about 1 1/2 cups). Trim and thickly slice the white and light green parts of the scallions (about 1/4 cup) and coarsely chop the jalapeno (about 2 teaspoons).

2. Combine the vegetables and the cilantro in a food processor. Add the oil, lime juice, and garlic. Pulse until finely chopped. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Note: To make sure your jalapeno has heat, cut off a thin slice, rub your finger over it, and then lick your finger.

Per 1/2 cup serving: 147 calories (85 percent from fat), 14.4 g fat (1.2 g saturated, 8.3 g monounsaturated), 0 cholesterol, 0.9 g protein, 4.9 g carbohydrates, 1.3 g fiber, 295 mg sodium.

Makes 4 servings

1/3 cup mayonnaise

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1/2 cup tomatillo salsa (see recipe)

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can salmon, drained and deboned

1 ripe avocado

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

4 (7-inch) pitas

2 cups baby romaine lettuce leaves

1. Stir the mayonnaise and lemon juice into the salsa in a medium bowl. Flake the salmon into the salsa mixture, leaving the pieces large.

2. Halve, seed, and peel the avocado, and cut it into 1/2-inch cubes (about 1 cup). Fold it into the salmon mixture, and season to taste with salt and pepper.

3. Slice open the tops of the pitas. Divide the salmon mixture and romaine among them, and serve.

Per serving: 563 calories (51 percent from fat), 32.3 g fat (4.9 g saturated, 11.2 g monounsaturated), 53.4 mg cholesterol, 27.8 g protein, 41 g carbohydrates, 5.9 g fiber, 565 mg sodium.