Why salmon is superior

Salmon is one of the top fishes recommended by the American Heart Association, because it's rich in omega-3 fatty acids. And the AHA recommends eating at least two servings of fish - particularly fatty kinds - per week. A serving size is about 3.5 ounces of cooked fish - the size of a deck of cards.

If you check out local fish counters, you will see some beautiful-looking salmon. The famed Copper River wild salmon from Alaska is about two weeks into its season, which typically lasts through September. Many stores are getting it in fresh.

At Philadelphia Lobster and Fish in Wynnewood this week, gorgeous slabs of early-run Copper River were going for $24 a pound.

"The season is a little slow, so the prices are still high," says Alex Draper, seafood manager at Holiday Market in Royal Oak, Mich. "I've read that they've had high winds in Alaska and limited fishing."

Now at about $23 to $29 per pound, prices should go down as the season progresses, Draper expects.

With Alaskan wild salmon, king is considered the top of the line. Sockeye, redder in color, is next, followed by coho salmon.

"The reason the Copper River salmon is considered better eating is because they feed voraciously before they spawn," says Draper. "They don't do any feeding during the spawning process so it makes the meat higher in omega-3s, so it's high in flavor."

Draper says that all wild salmon are richer and bolder in flavor than farm-raised salmon.

At some stores you will find wild salmon frozen or previously frozen. The USDA says that it's OK to refreeze previously frozen salmon, but keep in mind that the quality may suffer.

Wild salmon is best baked, broiled, or on the grill. I find it best to brine the salmon. Soaking the salmon fillets in a mixture of water, salt, and sugar helps it stay moist during cooking.

I prefer to season salmon simply and broil it. My preferred degree of doneness is what I would call medium. It easily cuts with a fork, is very tender, and is not flaky.

In this recipe, salmon is broiled and brushed with a sweet glaze that doesn't overpower. Top the salmon with the super-easy and flavorful dill cream that is a good match for the salmon's rich flavor.

Makes 4 servings

For the brine (optional)

6 cups water

1/2 cup kosher salt

1/2 cup sugar

For the salmon

4 salmon fillets with skin (4 to 5 ounces each and 1-inch thick), rinsed

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1-2 tablespoons orange juice

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Salt and pepper to taste

Dill Cream

2 tablespoons fresh chopped dill

1 tablespoon snipped chives

1/3 cup reduced-fat sour cream or nonfat Greek-style yogurt

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Pinch of sugar

1. If brining the salmon, stir together the water, salt and sugar until the mixture is dissolved.

2. Place the salmon fillets in a glass baking dish and pour the brine mixture over, making sure the salmon is completely covered. Add more water if needed. Refrigerate for 1 hour. Remove the salmon from the brine and rinse well under cold water. Set on a platter and pat dry.

3. In a small bowl, mix together the brown sugar, orange juice, mustard, salt, and pepper. The mixture should be the consistency of mustard. (If it's too thick, add more orange juice.)

4. In another small bowl, mix together all the dill cream ingredients. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste if desired. Set aside.

5. Preheat the broiler and line a broiler pan with foil. Place the salmon fillets on the foil, and season with salt and pepper. Broil about 5 minutes. Brush each with the Dijon mixture and continue broiling another 5 minutes or until salmon is just cooked through.

6. Remove from the broiler. Slide a spatula between the salmon and skin and remove the salmon fillets to a serving plate. Serve topped with a dollop of the dill cream.

Per serving: 187 calories, 7 grams fat, 9 grams carbohydrates, 20 grams protein, 445 milligrams sodium, 60 milligrams cholesterol, no dietary fiber.