Pure Tacos
An upgrade to the food choices on Ocean City's deep-fried boardwalk is long overdue, so the new Pure Tacos stand from former Manhattan lawyer Ted Schroeder is worth rooting for.
An upgrade to the food choices on Ocean City's deep-fried boardwalk is long overdue, so the new Pure Tacos stand from former Manhattan lawyer Ted Schroeder is worth rooting for. Inspired to create a flavorful gluten-free option due to his celiac disease, Schroeder has borrowed in equal parts from New York's hot taco trucks and quick-serve Mexican chains such as Chipotle Grill, with corn tortillas as a canvas for your choice of meats.
The early-season service was rough, with a slow turnaround and a confused counter guy taking orders on a paper towel. The tacos, though, were impressive, from the house-made chorizo singed with smoked paprika, to the butter-braised achiote chicken, to my favorite, a grilled hanger steak sparked with garlic and clove. Dress them up gringo-style, with lettuce, cheese, and sour cream, or go "authentic" with cilantro, onions, and chipotle salsa. Just plan your order to go. There's no seating, and the dive-bombing gulls have taken a shine to Pure Tacos, too.
- Craig LaBan
Two tacos $6.50 (three for $9), at Pure Tacos, 1138 Boardwalk, Ocean City, 609-736-8028; www.puretacos.com