The Greek salad has become a misplaced and tasteless afterthought on many restaurant menus. (Feel free to insert joke about Greece's economy here.)

Estia has given it a second chance, and provided salad-starved Center City eaters with a place to get a light, zesty meal-in-a-bowl. The Horiatiki salad is as simple as it gets, using only ripe tomatoes, Greek olive oil, sweet and red onions, English cucumber, and a well-dosed red-wine vinegar. But the game-changer might be the part goat's-milk feta, which is soft, creamy, and miles away from the version of the cheese that Americans have come to know.

Horiatiki salad at Estia, $15, 1405 Locust St., 215-735-7700,

- Ashley Primis