Going goat for burrata

Never mind that Nectar is essentially a pan-Asian restaurant. I'm willing to concede chef and co-owner Patrick Feury his desired "eclectic" status if he continues to make his exceptional goaty twist on burrata-style stuffed mozzarella. Feury, who's long been a proponent of local dairies and has studied cheesemaking in recent years, decided to use goat's milk from Yellow Springs Farm for his take on the indulgent, cream-stuffed Italian classic. He uses goat's milk (plus some cow) for the freshly-stretched mozzarella skin that forms the delicate exterior, enclosing the creamy chevre that fills the burrata's center. Served fresh and warm, with heirloom tomatoes and Thai basil picked from Nectar's garden, the farmy tang of the goat and subtle textural contrast of the cheese's dual textures was enough to inspire moans at my table. Even if it was as Asian as Marco Polo.

- Craig LaBan
Goat's milk burrata with heirloom tomato salad, $11, Nectar, 1091 Lancaster Ave., Berwyn, 610-725-9000; tastenectar.com