Restaurant Chat: Philly, its burbs ... and Pittsburgh?!

Craig:

Good afternoon, friends, and welcome back to the Philly food chat that’ll make you hungry – even if you just ate lunch. This will be the last chat for a while (sorry), but I’m going to be headed out on vacation for some of August. Which brings me to an open question some of you out there might be able to answer. As we head in the car out across that great culinary desert of the central Pa. turnpike, where can we find real food? It’s a quest I’ve tried to solve in many years of summer drives to Michigan, but I usually fail miserably. After a solid lunch at the Silk City Diner in Stephens (the Ephrata exit), we’re usually at the mercy of the demons of Breezewood. Any suggestions? Also, anyone out there with great Pittsburgh recommendations? I will report back on our luck this year when this chat returns on August 28.

Craig:

Oh yes, and of course, there is a crumb tracker today. Name the three restaurants in order where I ate these dishes and win a signed copy of my book: 1) the best tortilla soup in the city; 2) salt-baked Vietnamese soft-shells with lime-pepper dip; 3) pork in garlic sauce from the best Chinese home delivery in Center City (!)

Andy:

Hi Craig. Have you had the opportunity to eat at some of the great Mexican in the Italian Market area? My wife and I had our second really good meal at Molcajete Mixto at 8th and Christian last week, and the area is full of taquerias. Any favorites?

Gregg:

Good Afternoon Craig, I ate at a new Mexican BYO in South Philly on Friday night called Molcajete Mixto with a group of 15. The restaurant was very accomodating by giving us a very reasonable price-fixed meal. The food was excellent, the service was very attentive and the mixers for the tequilla were delicious. I was surprised to see that it was only about half to three quarters full. Have you dined there yet? Should we expect a review any time in the future? I would really like to see this place get the exposure it deserves. Thanks, Gregg

Craig:

OK, so Molcajete Mixto has gotten a nice bump in reader recommendations over the last few weeks. I'm sorry to say it's one of the very few local Mexicans I've yet to get to. I've been hearing very good things about Molcajete - it just seems to be closed every time I have a spare meal to check it out. Obviously, I'm going to need to make time. In the meanwhile, my current Mexican favorites in the Italian Market are these: La Lupe for all-around menu with homemade tortillas; Los Taquitos de Puebla for tacos al pastor (and strange meat tacos, like eyeballs and cheeks), and Acapulco just up the street for Thursday pozole stews.

Carolyn:

Hi, Craig. No questions - just a suggestion for dining in Pittsburgh. I recommend the Church Brew Works in Lawrenceville (just outside the Strip District) for good microbrews and pub food. The pierogi pizza is a favorite of mine. Thanks!

Craig:

Pierogi pizza? I'm sure it tastes better than it sounds, right? I'm always open to new regional flavors.

Chris H.:

3. Is Szechuan Tasty House. The dude on the moped that brings it is also up for best delivery guy in center city.

Craig:

Chris H. - you've got number 3. Szechuan Tasty was brought to my attention after last week's discussion of the sorry state of take-out/delivery in Center City. I know ST well - it's one of the favorites in my book - but had forgotten they do delivery. What a fiery treat - real Szechuan flavors burning up from the take-out box! Great hot and sour, amazingly spicy five pepper chicken, flakey turnip buns and the definitively silky ma pao tofu. Also, they do non-spicy things well, too - the kids loved their sesame chicken and plain steamed chicken. Looks like we'll be return customers. I was amazed that it was so consistent with what I ate at the restaurant last year. A good sign, and prompt.

Tom:

Craig, do you think there is a major difference between ordering a Good Dog burger Medium and Medium rare? I got one at Medium and it seemed to lose a little taste.

Craig:

Yes, Tom, definitely. The now famous Good Dog burger - that ground meat wonder with the blue cheese stuffed inside - definitely loses something when overcooked. Often, it's just too hot for that wellspring of cheese to remain intact. It's an extreme burger to begin with. Anything above medium rare is not recommended.

Matthew:

In Pittsburgh, I always liked the Tin Angel. You can't beat the view and the food is better than at the Georgetowne Inn. If you're there on Sunday, try brunch at the Grand Concourse. You have to like a place that has a harp player.

Craig:

Matthew - thanks for that Pittsburgh rec.

Bill:

Hi Craig. I'm going to the Borgata in a couple of weeks. We're trying to decide between dining at SeaBlue and Bobby Flay's. Have you reviewed these places? What were your general impressions? Thanks!

Craig:

Hi Bill - I reviewed those restaurants last year (hopefully we can put up a link soon for the transcript of this chat). My take - SeaBlue has the best food but a dull room. Bobby Flay is just fun - great room, excellent meat, a super place for a blow-out party with the boys (or girls!). My only complaint is that the menu hammers the Southwestern spice into everything so much, I think the flavors are a bit repetitive. Still, it's a fun destination. But the Lobster Pot Pie at SeaBlue is an incredibly decadent splurge. You decide. They're both good.

Rob:

Had a great meal at Coquette at 5th/Bainbridge on Friday night. It's still BYOB, until the license is approved, but the food was ready for primetime.

Craig:

Hey Rob - thanks for that early report on Coquette. I've been hearing good things too from sources I trust. The neighborhood - already lucky with options - seems to really have embraced it. Perhaps it will signal a renaissance for French-style bistro/brasseries?

Chris H.:

1. Xochitl, 2. Shiao Kun Lung? 3. STH

Luke:

Hi Craig, love the weekly chat. Is the answer to # 1 Xochitl

Craig:

Chris and Luke - thanks for guessing, but 1 and 2 are still incorrect.

Barbara:

Craig, do you ever come down to the Delaware beaches? Lewes, Rehoboth, Bethany all have some great restaurants. I would love to hear your take on some of them.

Craig:

Hi Barbara - you echo a sentiment I've heard from many readers over the past few weeks, that the Delaware Shore has some worthy dining, too. I've really not had a chance to spend enough time down there to make good recommendations. Our Jersey Shore coverage is required every year, maybe next season I'll get a chance to add some Delaware spots, too. Anybody out there want to throw us some good suggestions?

Matthew:

No! Craig, don't do it! Don't go to Delaware. I like not having it all to myself when I'm down there. If you give the go ahead, people will be flocking down there all the time!

Craig:

Hmmm....you really seem to like Delaware, Matthew. I think I better go there RIGHT AWAY!!!

Tom:

Craig, went to Roberto Cafe in Graduate Hospital recently and loved it. Thought it was definitely a better BYOB than Radicchio. Thoughts?

Craig:

Tom, yes, I'm a fan of Roberto, but I'm not really sure it's better than Radicchio. The guys that own it used to work at Radicchio, and they've really brought almost the exact menu/concept to their place. It's very similar, very fresh and authentic, but I didn't think it was distinguishably better than the original. For that matter, neither was Bistro Juliana, the actual Radicchio offshoot in Port Richmond. It has a very similar feel, and a great grilled octopus/chickpea salad, but I didn't think the subtleties of the cooking were quite what I expect at Radicchio. (Plus, what's up with the grilled pita bread instead of real Italian bread?) That said, both Juliana and Roberto are pleasant, worthy destinations. Any neighborhood would be glad to have them.

Che:

I'm a big fan of your columns and weekly chat. Is 1 El Vez, 2. Vietnam

Craig:

Che - you've nailed number 1, but we're still looking for proper guess on number 2. That tortilla soup, still cooked (I believe) to Jose Garces' orginal recipe, is just an amazing bowl of layered flavors - sour lime, chile spice, earthy corn - and textures, crunchy tortillas, chicken shreds and creamy avocado. Very satisfying, very authentic.

Andy:

Here's another shoutout to the guy on the moped from STH. I have found that delivery times vary from about 20 minutes to an hour though. It's worth it for the dumplings in spicy sauce.

Craig:

Good delivery guys never get the credit they deserve. I do miss the chef on the bicycle from Minar Palace, though, who used to pedal our meals over in his kitchen whites. Always a smile with those samosas.

Renee:

I was looking up past reviews and some of the stars you gave don't show up. For example, Osteria received 3 stars (I thought) but it only has 2 online. What's going on with that?

Craig:

Renee - thanks for catching this! That is a major mistake that we plan to fix pronto. Osteria is a solid, strong three bells. But mistakes happen sometime in the translation from print to online content. I rarely double-check the online versions of my stories, so it's really up to readers to point them out to me. Thanks!

Che:

here's my last shot on #2. nam phuong?

Craig:

Che - you've got it! A new Crumb Tracker! Please send me your mailing info, and I'll do my best to send your book ASAP. Those crabs, by the way, are excellent. Nice and crisp and fresh and sweet. Also, that pepper lime sauce is perfect, so simple, yet so bright and sparkling.

Jeff:

Craig, settle an argument my friends and I recently had (yes, we have too much time on our hands). Could a restaurant devoted only to French Fries, like Pommes Frites in New York, ever work in Philadelphia?

Craig:

Jeff, I'm not a restaurant consultant, so I'm not going to answer that one. Plus, I'm constantly surprised by the concepts that do/don't work. That said, didn't someone try this once a few years ago on South Street - a Belgian style frite place? It didn't last.

Mark:

Hi Craig. I was reading through last week's chat and saw that both Pif and Pasion have closed. My wife and I recently had a chance to dine at Pasion this past January and we both thought it was teriffic and were looking forward to dining there again. We tried Alma de Cuba and were disappointed. To us it was a definite step down from Pasion. You mentioned that the head chef is now at Cuba Libre. Can I assume that is the restaurant here in Philly and not A.C.? I'm also sorry to here that Pif closed. I received a gift certificate for there last year and did not have an opportunity to enjoy it.

Craig:

Mark - thanks for your note and comments. It's been a long while since I ate at Alma (though I noticed it's open for lunch now, so maybe....) That said, I never liked it quite as much as Pasion. There are many excellent dishes there, but it's too heavy on the starches, and way too dark for my tastes. As for Guillermo Pernot, my understanding is that he is exec-chef for both Cuba Libre restaurant - in Old City and Atlantic City. One more thing, you should be able to redeem your Pif gift certificate at Ansill in Queen Village, as it's owned by the same owner.

Gregg:

Craig, Did you happen to catch Philadelphia Magazine's Best of Philly choices for 2007? If so, what were your thoughts on their dining selections? Thanks, Gregg

Craig:

Hi Gregg - I've only had a chance to glance at those Best Ofs ... and though I rarely ever put together lists like those myself, I agree with many of those mentioned (Best New Restaurant: Osteria), Best New Restaurant Suburbs (Blackfish). I do like what Jonathan McDonald has been doing over at SnackBar, but I think I definitely would have chosen Jose Garces for Best Chef instead. His work at Tinto is just stellar. The shout-outs to Tiffin (best Indian), Zento (best sushi) , Xochitl (margarita), and James (roast chicken) also echo much of what I've written this year, which is to say, I agree with those choices. Not that I was consulted. I have no idea how they're made, honestly, but they were more solid - and less random - this year than usual.

Craig:

I've been alerted by our crack online wizards that Osteria has been updated to its proper 3 bells. Now THAT's a live chat!

Jim:

L'oca revisited. I see that Philly Mag named L'oca the best pasta in Philly. I recall your review--you didn't like it. I have to say, I really enjoy L'oca, and have a great dinner there several times. It's nice to have something new and fun in the neighborhood. Maybe you can revisit the restaurant sometime??

Craig:

OK - that's one I don't really agree with. Yes, that goose ragu is a good dish, but it's the restaurant's signature. (Actually, I also like L'oca's baked gnocchetti), but in general, L'oca doesn't even make its own pasta. The duck ragu with bittersweet chocolate over papparedelle at James is far superior in terms of flavors, elegance and touch - plus the pasta is homemade. I will give L'oca another try before year's end. I want to like it, but they have to do the cooking.

Kevin Smith:

Craig, Philly has received praise over the last couple of years for its food renaissance and much of the credit has gone to the number of quality chefs we have in the area. The names mentioned are virtually always the same: Marc Vetri, Daniel Stern, Jose Garces, etc. However, I feel it is an injustice that Matt Spector is never mentioned among this elite group. Since its opening in late 2003, Matyson has been the model of consistency and a benchmark for restaurateurs hoping to profit from the city’s BYO boom. The restaurant is packed almost every night because the food is consistently among our city’s best, and the weekly-changing Tasting menu always gives patrons a different option from the Regular menu. I feel Spector has gone unnoticed because his menu does not have the “creativity” or “diversity” that you’ll get at Amada, Lacroix or Snackbar, but take one look at Matyson’s dining area on any given night and “the proof is in the pudding," so to speak.

Craig:

Hi Kevin - you make a good point on Matt Spector at Matyson, but I hardly think he's been overlooked. At least not in my columns and forums. He's a favorite in my book, where he was given 3 bells, and is the frequent subject of discussion on this chat. I defnitely consider Matyson to be among our leading BYOBs (or any restaurant, for that matter). That said, what you are seeing with some of these other chefs is an extending influence on the dining scene - with proteges and multiple restaurants, etc. Spector could be one of those guys evenutally. I know lots of good young chefs who started working alongside him - a real extension of the Jake's kitchen out of Manayunk. In addition, his wife Sonjia, the pastry queen, may actually be an equally talented chef in that kitchen.

phoodlicious:

Hi Craig, We just moved to the Plymouth Meeting area from South Philly and can't find good breakfast place, any ideas?

Craig:

Phoodlicious - I'm dedicated to my craft, but I don't think I could make it out to Plymouth Meeting in time for breakfast research! We're going to have to depend upon some chatters here for help.

DMcN:

Kevin Smith/Matt Spector ... Finkle/Einhorn, Einhorn/Finkle, Smith is Spector, Spector is Smith...

Craig:

DMcN, you are so cynical!! I've seen Matt Spector, and he doesn't look anything like Kevin Smith.

Christie P.:

I often base my restaurant selection on your reviews, is there a way I can search for restaurants on Philly.com based on your ratings? I moved here from Washington DC and the Post has that particular option on their Web site that I found was helpful.

Craig:

That's a good question, Christie. Right now, it's only searchable by cuisine and neighborhood, but it's something to consider as we refine the site. I know all the restaurants in my book are definitely searchable in the back index by bell. That said, we write about many, many restaurants that are included in our database that don't have formal bell ratings. That doesn't mean they aren't worthy - it only means I haven't gotten to them yet.

phoodlicious:

Thanks Craig, Breakfast and coffee are scarce up here- unless you'd like to join us at Friendly's or Tarbucks?

Craig:

I'll work on that one phoodlicious. In the meanwhile, I'm afraid it's time to call this chat to a close. I'm off to Michigan, land of the Coney Island and fresh-baked pita. Then it's a New England jaunt to the Cape and Vineyard. Hopefully, I'll be full tasty food tales to relate when I return to this chat on Aug. 28. Enjoy the rest of your summers. Until then, be well, and eat something worth bragging about!