The best things we ate this week
Our staff was delighted by Mexican-style risotto in South Philly, stuffed squid on South St., afternoon tea in Wayne, and their first-ever Taco Bell feast.
By Craig LaBan, Michael Klein, Caryn Shaffer, Bedatri D. Choudhury
Rajas con crema risotto at El Mictlan
hiladelphia’s Mexican restaurant scene is thriving now more than ever, and Chelo Manzanarez of El Mictlan is one of its singular voices. The Acapulco-born chef draws inspiration from Guerrero — an underrepresented coastal state in a town where flavors from Puebla rule — to serve standout dishes like his mother’s sublime mole Colorado, a bracing Acapulco-style ceviche with mixed seafood (including snails!), and crispy pescadilla fish tacos. Manzanarez also has an artful independent streak that delivers some fusion surprises. His penchant for giving Italian risotto seasonal Mexican twists is a prime example.
When I first began frequenting this colorful corner BYOB in West Passyunk, Manzanarez had given risotto a striking rust-colored hue with guajillo salsa, then topped it with seared scallops and edible flowers. But at my most recent visit, that risotto had turned a pretty pastel green thanks to Manzanarez’s cilantro crema, the perfect spring canvas for snappy laces of roasted poblano chile rajas, corn, and crunchy red crumbles of crispy prosciutto.
I am delighted to see that Manzanarez has opened up a branch of El Mictlan in University City’s new Gather Food Hall, where you can taste his signature creamy poblano soup, lamb barbacoa tacos, and tostadas piled high with huitlacoche or octopus. But for that risotto, and so much more, a visit to the original El Mictlan in South Philly is still required. El Mictlan, 2053 S. Beechwood St., 267-876-7012, elmictlanrestaurantpa.com
— Craig LaBan
Stuffed squid at Banshee
At the new Banshee in Graduate Hospital, chef Bryan Donovan has swapped out mussels in favor of stuffed squid, which he soft-launched at last month’s Chef Assembly pop-up with Charlotte, N.C.’s buzzy Mediterranean restaurant Rada. Briny and delicate tentacles give way to a light berbere-spiced shrimp mousse that comes glazed with liquid aminos and honey, and is served with saffron aioli and roasted peppers marinated in sherry vinegar and olive oil. It’s refined and savory, with a soft richness from the cream, crème fraîche, onions, and garlic. Now on the menu officially, you’ll want to order the house-baked sourdough to clean your plate. Banshee, 1600 South St., 267-876-8346, bansheephl.com
— Michael Klein
Full afternoon tea at Taste of Britain
I’ve wanted to visit this well-regarded teahouse and gift shop on the Main Line since I moved to the area almost six years ago. At a recommendation (and reminder) from a friend, I made a 4 p.m. reservation and dropped by with my husband for the full afternoon tea. It comes with a selection of delicate finger sandwiches and a warm scone served alongside authentic clotted cream, strawberry jam and lemon curd. Three tiny, elegant pastries join them at the top of a tiered serving stand, and the whole experience also includes a pot of tea.
The calm atmosphere was just the vibe I needed to wind down a hectic day. I was especially fond of the grape-studded curried chicken salad sandwich and the warm blueberry citrus scone, which tasted fresh. Taste of Britain sells its looseleaf tea, scones, sandwiches and other carryout items in its shop. We left with bags of fragrant lavender earl grey and hummingbird almond cake teas to enjoy for the week. Taste of Britain, 503 Lancaster Ave., Wayne, 610-971-0390, atasteofbritain.com
— Caryn Shaffer
Crunchwrap Supreme at Taco Bell
Until last week, I had somehow managed to live in the United States for 10 years without ever having had anything from Taco Bell. It’s an injustice that my friends Emily and Mark sought to correct right away by pretty much ordering one of everything from their menu when I told them. My favorite among the sea of the treats that were laid in front of me was the Crunchwrap Supreme with black beans.
What puts me off a lot of fast food is how quickly they become difficult to eat. Things get soggy, rubbery, or hard very quickly. But not the Crunchwrap Supreme. The lettuce had a crunch, the cheese hadn’t turned goopy, and the black beans didn’t leak out of the perfect hexagonal tortilla wrap; it was one perfect bite after another. My first Taco Bell experience was a success. I am told it can only get better from here, preferably with a Baja Blast to go with my next feast. Taco Bell, multiple locations, tacobell.com
— Bedatri D. Choudhury
