Making these enormous, orange-scented, two-toned cookies felt a little daunting at first, but you’ll feel triumphant at the end. Essen chef-owner Tova du Plessis, who’s in the process of opening Essen North in Kensington, uses real vanilla bean in the royal icing and Valrhona dark chocolate in the ganache. She emphasizes the need to scrape the mixing bowl after each step in order to evenly distribute all ingredients. (For a little extra instruction, you can find a video of du Plessis making black and white cookies on YouTube.) An ice cream scoop is the most reliable way to shape the dough, which is much easier to work with when thoroughly chilled. The trick to getting the perfect final appearance is icing the flat bottoms of these soft, cakey cookies.
Download recipe.
Buy it instead: Essen Bakery sells black and white cookies daily. Find them in South Philly at 1437 E. Passyunk Ave. and soon at 110 W. Berks St.
Yields about 15 (4-inch) cookies
For the cookies:
230 grams (2 sticks) unsalted butter
280 grams (1⅓ cup plus 5½ teaspoons) white sugar
1 teaspoon orange zest (or ½ teaspoon pure orange oil)
2 large eggs
1½ teaspoons vanilla extract
420 grams (3½ cups) cake flour, sifted
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
225 grams (1 cup) sour cream
For the ganache:
200 grams (1 cup plus 3 tablespoons) dark chocolate (chopped, if using a bar)
100 grams (⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons) heavy cream
20 grams (1 tablespoon) corn syrup
For the royal icing:
225 grams (2 cups) powdered sugar
1 egg white
1 vanilla bean, seeds scraped into a bowl (if using extract, substitute 1 teaspoon)
Milk or water
In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, cream the butter, sugar, and orange zest until light and fluffy. SCRAPE!
In a small bowl, combine the eggs and vanilla and whisk together to lightly beat the eggs. With the mixer on high, gradually add the egg mixture one at a time and vanilla. SCRAPE!
In a large bowl, whisk together the cake flour, salt, and baking soda.
With the mixer on low, being careful not to overmix, gradually add the dry ingredients and sour cream in alternating increments. Scrape the paddle and the bottom and sides of the bowl a few times between additions. Beat on high speed for 3 seconds at the end. The dough should be homogeneous, smooth, and creamy, with a texture between cookie and cake batter.
Cover the mixer bowl with plastic wrap (or transfer to another container) and refrigerate overnight, or place in the freezer for 30 minutes. This makes the dough easy to scoop/shape.
Using an ice cream scoop or a piping bag, portion the dough into 80- to 90-gram mounds. You can either chill the dough balls for another 30 minutes or freeze completely. (Allow frozen dough balls to sit at room temperature for 15 minutes before baking.) When baking, generously space the balls out on a lined sheet pan, allowing plenty of room for the cookies to spread.
Bake at 325°F for 12 to 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Cool completely on a wire rack.
To make the ganache, put the chocolate in a large heat-resistant bowl. In a small saucepan over high, combine the cream and corn syrup. Heat the mixture, stirring, until it’s just boiling, then remove from heat. Pour over the chocolate and wait 1 minute, then stir the chocolate mixture until smooth. Allow to cool to a spreadable consistency while you make the royal icing. (If the ganache gets too cold, gently rewarm it in the microwave or over a double boiler.)
To make the royal icing, in a mixer fitted with a whisk, beat the egg white, vanilla, and powdered sugar on high speed until thick and stiff. Add milk or water 1 teaspoon at a time, mixing well and scraping between each addition, until the icing reaches a thick but spreadable consistency.
Using an offset spatula or a spoon, ice one half of the flat bottom of the cookie with ganache. Chill for 5 minutes. Ice the other half with royal icing. Let the glaze set in the refrigerator for at least 10 minutes.