You'd think it was February — not only because of the frosty weather but because of the sweet news I have for you: a new hot chocolate truck in Center City and the impending comeback of a chocolate specialist.
Also this week, I visit a new Thai/Malaysian bistro on the Main Line, a sleeper of a dining room in Center City, and a chill corner bar tucked away in South Philly.
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Sweeter days ahead for chocolate
Hot chocolate from a food truck takes me back to the mid-'60s when my father would rip open an envelope of Carnation into a Styrofoam cup, toss in hot water and a wooden stirrer, and hand it through the window to a guy in a hard hat to wash down his powdered doughnut.
Food trucks, of course, are far more bougie now than in my dad's days shuttling among the construction sites hustling for a buck. And he'd laugh all day over the idea of a truck specializing in hot chocolate.
If you're around LOVE Park Wednesday-Friday or the Barnes Museum on weekends, you can get a cup of creamy hot chocolate from La Chocolatera, a truck owned by David Truskinoff. He traded a career as a Broadway music director for the bittersweet world of drinking chocolate. No cups of commercial cocoa here — he imports beans, adds premium flavorings, and makes it from scratch. Check my Instagram and read my Q&A on Philly.com.
And since we’re on the subject: Center City had three locations of the intriguingly named Naked Chocolate Cafe. It’s due to come back in about three weeks in a new location in Newtown, Bucks County. All new approach, including candies made from responsibly sourced beans as well as drinking chocolate: a dark single-origin hot chocolate, milk single-origin hot chocolate, a vegan version of the dark, as well as frozen hot chocolate.
This Week’s Openings
Luna Cafe | Kensington
The Old City cafe has a new branch at 1700 N. Third St., at Columbia Avenue.
Rouge | Rittenhouse Square
The groundbreaking bistro at 205 S. 18th St. is expected to soft-open early next week after renovations. I hear that Hop Sing Laundromat's enigmatic owner, Lê, is consulting on the cocktail menu.
The Simple Greek | Wayne
Fast-casual Greek chain, also in Dresher, comes to the Main Line at 313 E. Lancaster Ave.
Braeloch Brewing | Kennett Square
Taproom marks its grand opening at 225 Birch St. this weekend.
This Week’s Closings
555 Lagiola | Ambler
The Spanish BYOB in downtown Ambler burned down last week.
Big Fish Grill | Glen Mills
Lease negotiations supposedly did not go its way, so March 9 will be the finale. White Dog Cafe will open there in fall.
The Juice Merchant | Narberth
The healthful-eating cafe's Main Line shop pulled out last week. University City and Manayunk remain.
Kebab & Grill | Merion Station
As the Indian restaurant has closed, Savvati Gourmet, a kosher caterer, is moving in.
Sedition | Washington Square West
The subterranean bar-restaurant yearling didn’t make it at 727 Walnut St. “It’s a tough world out there,” owner Gene LeFevre said. Preach.
Where we’re enjoying happy hour
Wander Inn, 2500 S. Third St.; 4-7 p.m. Monday-Friday
Jonn Klein (The Dive, Watkins Drinkery) revived a classic name in Philly taproom lore last summer when he set up this bar at Third and Porter Streets in South Philadelphia. The Wander Inn, once a regular venue of blues legend Bessie Smith, stood for decades across town at 18th and Federal Streets in Point Breeze. It sank into nuisance-bar status by the time of its closing around 2005 and is now the home of American Sardine Bar.
This Wander Inn rocks the classic corner bar vibe with killer rock jukebox, blue-casted lighting, galvanized metal cladding the wall behind the bar, and a drink tower made up of pipes and plumbing fittings. Pool table and games are on the second floor.
Drink list includes three cocktails on draft (discounted to $5 during happy hour), plus a good supply of whiskeys. Happy hour also means half-price drafts and $5 wines by the glass.
Chef Brandon Murray, whose kitchen is open till 1 a.m. daily, puts up various specials both inside and outside the happy hours, including $1 wings Sunday nights (6-wing minimum) and loaded fry boats ($7) on Friday.
Where we’re eating
Green Papaya Asian Bistro, 202 E. Lancaster Ave., Ardmore
Jimmy Tran and his wife, Vickie, ran Aqua, a Malaysian/Thai restaurant for 10 years at 705 Chestnut St. Solid deal. Friendly service. Then they got tired and sold the place. He did some consulting and got bored.
Last month, they set up a BYOB in Ardmore across from the Lower Merion municipal building with a bold idea: Counter service. You'd order and take a seat, or just order takeout and head out the door. Main Liners, though, want full service, so he hired waiters for the spare yet comfortable dining room.
While the setup may be a touch confusing, there's no denying the budget-friendly food. It's a tight assortment of Aqua's greatest hits, including the noodle dish chow kueh teow, papaya salad, beef rendang, and roti canal.
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday noon-9 p.m. Sunday.
Liberty Lounge at the Sofitel, 17th and Sansom Streets
No PR machine, no marketing. If you didn’t know that the Sofitel served full meals in its mod, elegant ground-floor lounge (or if a friend didn’t tip you off), you’d miss an altogether pleasant experience. Tables are somewhat small, so it may make more sense to snag real estate at the bar for lunch or dinner, unless your heart was set on a spot near a fireplace.
Chef Edward Hancock's menu leans French (onion soup, salmon rillettes, steak frites), and one pleasant surprise was the nod toward healthful preparation in the form of a "De-Light Menu." The chicken shown here ($24), served with smoked fingerling potatoes, mushroom ragout, and apple cognac "butter," supposedly clocks in at only 250 calories.
Hours: 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Full menu offered till 10 p.m.
Dining Notes
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