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Sebastian Besiso gives a thumbs up while making a pizza in his Apizzeria 888 by Sebastian in Elkins Park on Thursday, Nov. 20, 2025.
Sebastian Besiso gives a thumbs up while making a pizza in his Apizzeria 888 by Sebastian in Elkins Park on Thursday, Nov. 20, 2025.Read moreElizabeth Robertson / Staff Photographer

Apizzeria 888 by Sebastian

Pizza, Italian$

This one-man, hole-in-the-wall pizza lab in Elkins Park is churning out some of the most interesting thin-crust pies in the area. Right now (late 2025), Sebastian Besiso is working for himself and by himself: 40 pies a night, walk-in or call-in, pickup only. And he’s the first to say that you may not like his pizza, especially if you prefer more conventional New York or Neapolitan styles. His “Roma” has two kinds of aged cheese, a smear of a slightly sweet tomato basil sauce, and an almost impossibly thin crust that shatters around the edges as you bite in. There is no flop whatsoever. It has the crunchy, cheese-on-the-bottom qualities of Chicago tavern-style, though Besiso slices his pies into conventional eighths, not party squares. Toppings include beef pepperoni and sausage crumbles.

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The Inquirer aims to represent the geographic, cultural, and culinary diversity of the region in its coverage. Inquirer staffers and contributors do not accept free or comped meals — all meals are paid for by the Inquirer. All dining recommendations are made solely by the Inquirer editorial staffers and contributors based on their reporting and expertise, without input from advertisers or outside interests.