Chef Vola’s

Says critic Craig Laban: “Google killed the secrecy that once shrouded this unmarked red-gravy haven in an Atlantic City basement in ‘friends-of-friends’ exclusivity. That — and new porch seating (as suggested by Jay-Z, a regular) — hasn’t made it easier to get a reservation at this 1921 landmark owned by the Esposito family. But it’s worth the effort to savor the epic bone-in veal parm, plump flounder francaise, chicken Scarpariello buried in house-made veal sausage and peppers, followed by a dreamy wedge of warm ricotta pie. Just bring a thick wallet — it’s cash only.”