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The eight-seat omakase counter at Yanaga Kappo Izakaya, 627 N. Third St., on Sept. 27, 2024.
The eight-seat omakase counter at Yanaga Kappo Izakaya, 627 N. Third St., on Sept. 27, 2024.Read moreMichael Klein / Staff

Yanaga Kappo Izakaya

Japanese, Sushi$$

This is restaurant veteran Kevin Yanaga’s stealth transformation of what was once the Abbaye in Northern Liberties. The decor remains virtually unchanged from its divey predecessor, but the menu now features a large array of casually presented handrolls, maki rolls, fries with mayo-heavy dips, little rice bowls, and wagyu hot dogs cut into segments to be shared. There’s an excellent happy hour that includes food specials and drinks, mostly under $10. Behind a bookcase, you’ll also find Yanaga’s far more elevated omakase, where a plethora of ultra-fine ingredients are manipulated into singularly spectacular bites.

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The Inquirer aims to represent the geographic, cultural, and culinary diversity of the region in its coverage. Inquirer staffers and contributors do not accept free or comped meals — all meals are paid for by the Inquirer. All dining recommendations are made solely by the Inquirer editorial staffers and contributors based on their reporting and expertise, without input from advertisers or outside interests.