Natural wines, naturally leavened pizzas, and a “nurturing" vibe are on the way to 23rd and Spruce Streets.
A Frame Constructs, the team that developed such projects as the original Pizzeria Beddia (now Pizza Shackamaxon), Martha, Philly Style Bagels, Good Spoon, and Lunar Inn, will turn the longtime home of Mama Palma’s and Palma’s Cucina into a restaurant called Sally. It is projected as three to six months away.
A Frame partners Cary Borish and Mike and Lena Parsell plan to retain Palma’s wood-fired oven and add a bar and a bottle shop, similar to the shop called Tiny’s at Lunar Inn, in Port Richmond.
A chef has not been hired, but Lena Parsell said seafood and vegetables would predominate on the approachable, seasonal menu — “everyday food, made with love, that maybe we don’t have time to cook. Definitely on the healthier side, but not a vegetarian or vegan restaurant. We’ll embrace all the food groups in a thoughtful way.”
The atmosphere will be “nurturing,” says Borish, referring not only to the atmosphere but to the approach to service. He lives in the neighborhood.
Sally is just one project that Borish and the Parsells have on the way. They’re building out ZigZag BBQ on York Street, next to Martha, for a March opening. Chef-partner Matt Lang, who now works at Martha, will run ZigZag, whose five main offerings will be brisket, turkey breast, pork spare ribs, pork shoulder, and sausage. Two vegan sandwiches will be offered, and many sides will be vegan.
The partners also are turning their attention to further developments in Port Richmond, where they recently acquired the shuttered Krakus Market.
As for the Sally name: It’s a tribute to Sally Stein, Borish’s grandmother and the mother of restaurateurs Sheryl Borish (Marathon Grill) and the late Neil Stein (Striped Bass, et al.). “Total foodie,” her grandson said.