Hawaiian pizza gets a bad rap, and I get that. Tomato sauce and cheese enveloping hot chunks of canned pineapple?
Then I tried the sweet Leilani from Terra Nova Woodfired Pizza & Grill, a week-old takeout at 1010 E. Willow Grove Ave. in Wyndmoor, and you had me at aloha.
Well-traveled chef John McLaughlin, who learned pizzas from one of the best Italian chefs around, Pete McAndrews, makes a tomato-mango chutney, which balances the zingy pepper jack cheese, sweet grilled pineapple, and smoky chunks of bacon on his 12-inch neo-Neapolitan crusts baked in a wood-fired oven.
Other varieties include a white pie with goat cheese, herb-roasted mushrooms, and umami mushroom sauce; a roasted chicken and Gouda with barbecue sauce and fried onion; and Buffalo chicken with a spicy sauce, Gorgonzola, and celery heart.
There are honey-wheat crusts as well as a gluten-free crust (though it’s a shared kitchen).
And how about that: Little Wyndmoor, a slice of Springfield Township just over the city line from Chestnut Hill, now has three pizzerias, after Tony’s Pizza City and Enza down the block.
(There’s also the new Yankee Chipper, a regulation Irish chip shop, around the corner.)
Hours: noon to 8 p.m. Sunday, 4 to 9 p.m. Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday; 4 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, closed Tuesday.