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Middle Child, a modern diner, opens in Wash West

So happens that restaurateur Matt Cahn himself is a middle child.

Owner Matthew Cahn and chef Keith Krajewski at Middle Child, 248 S. 11th St.
Owner Matthew Cahn and chef Keith Krajewski at Middle Child, 248 S. 11th St.Read moreMICHAEL KLEIN / Staff

Breakfast and lunch have a lowly reputation in the food chain, Matthew Cahn explains.

They're often the "middle child" to dinner.

So happens that Cahn himself is a middle child — the 28-year-old son of Cherry Hill Mayor Chuck Cahn and his wife, Stephanie, sandwiched between David (a doctor) and Liz (a grad-school student in public health).

Speaking of sandwiches: On Friday, Oct. 20, Cahn opens a mini-diner/takeout called Middle Child at 248 S. 11th St. in Washington Square West. He's taken the narrow storefront previously occupied by Petit Roti, adding a six-seat dining counter and about 10 seats for his homage to the luncheonette.

There also are shelves stocking a quirky selection of some of Cahn's favorite foods, such as Duke's mayo, Marshmallow Fluff, Quisp cereal, and Hammond's pretzels, and house-brined pickles in the case.

Cahn — a front-of-the-house veteran of such New York establishments as Court Street Grocers and Superiority Burger who fell into the restaurant biz after working in advertising — has the services of Keith Krajewski, most recently executive chef at Marigold Kitchen. Krajewski has packed away his tweezers; there's no need for precious plating, given the menu that he and Cahn have cooked up.

It suggests "Philly diner," but adds a contemporary spin.

For breakfast (served all day), the house egg-and-cheese sandwich may come gussied up with arugula, but there's also a simple plate of eggs, hash browns, and choice of toast for less than $6. Then again, there's also blintz toast — a riff on blintzes that has whipped farmer's cheese, blueberry-masala jam, and lemon zest on potato bread.

They're serving Elixr coffee, and (for now, anyway) his mother's pastries.

Lunch menu includes a Reuben, a turkey-and-Swiss sandwich (but with blueberry-masala jam and arugula), a grilled cheese sandwich, and a vegan banh mi-ish sammie dubbed the Phoagie. It's hoisin eggplant, avocado, white onion, bean sprouts, fresh and frizzled onions, Viet herb mix, pho sauce, and sambal chili paste on a Sarcone's hoagie roll ($9).

All meats and condiments are prepped in-house.

Hours are 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday.