Anytime I taste the quenching fizz of Portuguese vinho verde, I relive some of my happiest moments from the backpack summer of '89. Hot days swimming off the rocky Algarve coast. Fresh sardines on the charcoal grill. And an ice-cold bottle of amazingly cheap vinho verde packed for a beach-day picnic.

Nearly two decades later, this cheery and unique white remains one of the best bargains I know for warm- weather sipping. This Aveleda is no exception, with an almost soda-like effervescence and a bright citrus squirt, but also an appetizingly dry finish that leaves the sweet and pithy aftertaste of clementines.

Aveleda vinho verde is available for $8.99 in select Pennsylvania State Stores.

- Craig LaBan