Mussels, or

moules

, are a Belgian tradition. Moules DiPietro is something wholly Philadelphian. It's the specialty of chef Richard DiPietro at Eulogy Belgian Tavern in Old City.

DiPietro uses Duxbury mussels, as the smaller Prince Edward Island variety just don't cut it. The broth starts with a beer and lobster stock, and includes Andouille sausage, Ardennes ham, Parmesan, garlic, shallots, celery, onions, peppers and herbs. Part of the appeal is the Dutch-style mussel pot it's served in. Flip it open and the steam gushes out.

The lid catches the empty shells. Your crusty bread catches the ham and sausage.

It's $7.99 for a pound and $14.99 for two pounds, at Eulogy Belgian Tavern, 136 Chestnut St., 215-413-1918.

- Michael Klein