Enhancing a basic bean soup

In winter, I favor one-pot soups, the kind you might find while traveling through the countryside of Italy or France: unfussy combinations of beans, coarsely cut vegetables, and herbs, whose rich flavors and abundant texture coalesce into something akin to a stew. They provide a kind of comfort and nourishment found in no other food.

I find myself returning often to a simple strategy for a basic bean soup that is delicious as is, but even better as the base for further embellishments: a white bean soup infused with thyme and rosemary, served with a variety of accompaniments that can be spooned into the center of each serving.

These include leafy greens sauteed in olive oil with lots of garlic; Sweet Pepper and Onion Confit (see recipe); sauteed wild mushrooms; or some leftover braised meat that's been shredded and warmed.

Even easier is a drizzle of fine olive oil and shavings of aged cheese, such as Parmigiano-Reggiano or Spanish Manchego.

The basic method is easy, and you can improvise by using different kinds of broths or combinations of herbs, or ham to give a smoky flavor. Any of these soups can be pureed for a creamy consistency.

Generally speaking, I find that white bean soups combine well with many kinds of flavorings and garnishes, and that they provide a visual contrast as well.

But you can tailor your embellishments to the bean, for example, using cumin and smoky ham to flavor a black bean soup garnished with sour cream and cilantro, or sweet pepper and onion confit spiked with ancho chile powder.

Brown and pinto beans have affinities for shredded, long-cooked pork, small cubes of bread pan-fried until golden in olive oil with a bruised clove of garlic, and crisp diced bacon or pancetta.

The other great virtue of this Essential Bean Soup (see recipe) is that it will keep about five days refrigerated and can be frozen without the garnishes for up to three months.

If you don't have time to soak the beans overnight, cook them longer (at least an hour), adding water as necessary to keep them covered with liquid.

Makes 8 servings

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2 ounces pancetta or bacon, cut into 1/4-inch pieces

1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium carrot, peeled and finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, chopped

2 1/2 cups dried beans, such as baby limas, navy, cannellini, pinto, soaked overnight in water to cover by 2 inches

6 to 8 cups low-sodium or homemade chicken broth 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 imported bay leaves

1/2 teaspoon sugar

2 teaspoons kosher salt

Ham hock or chunk of smoky ham for flavoring (optional)

2 to 3 tablespoons chopped pungent fresh herbs: rosemary, thyme, savory or sage, in any combination

1/4 cup roasted garlic puree

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1. In a large, heavy saucepan or Dutch oven, cook the pancetta, covered, over low heat, stirring occasionally until the fat has rendered out and the pancetta is fairly crisp, about 15 minutes; with a slotted spoon, remove the pancetta to a bowl. Add the onion, carrots and garlic to the pan, cover and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are soft but not browned, about 15 minutes.

2. Drain the soaked beans and add to the pan, along with 6 cups of the broth, the pepper flakes, bay leaves, sugar and the cooked pancetta. If using a ham hock or smoked ham, add it now. Bring to a simmer, partially cover, and cook until the soup begins to thicken and the beans are soft, about 11/4 to 11/2 hours. Add as much of the remaining chicken broth as necessary to achieve the consistency you prefer. After 1 hour of cooking, stir in the salt.

3. If you wish to add herbs or roasted garlic, add them during the last half-hour of cooking. Cooked vegetables can be added now to let the flavors marry, or can be spooned into the center of each bowl just before serving.

4. To serve, ladle the soup into warm soup bowls. Add embellishments as desired.

Note: Optional embellishments (singly or in combination): Fruity extra-virgin olive oil or a flavored oil such as sage, basil, rosemary or truffle oil, drizzled over each serving; chopped fresh mild herbs such as basil, cilantro, chives, flat-leaf parsley, sprinkled over each serving; hard aged cheese, such as Parmigiano-Reggiano, Fiore Sardo or Manchego, thinly shaved or grated over each serving; about 2 cups cooked, sauteed or roasted vegetables, such as: roasted root vegetables; chopped onions or peppers; sauteed wild mushrooms, onions, bell peppers, fennel or spinach; Sweet Onion and Pepper Confit (see recipe).

Per serving: 295 calories, 20 grams protein, 44 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams sugar, 5 grams fat, 8 milligrams cholesterol, 721 milligrams sodium, 14 grams dietary fiber.

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Makes 2 cups or 8 servings

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2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, coarsely chopped

4 large garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced

4 yellow and/or red bell peppers, quartered, core and white ribs removed, each quarter cut into 1/4-inch dice

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 can (14.5 ounces) diced peeled Italian tomatoes, drained well

1/4 cup torn fresh basil leaves, or 8 small fresh sage leaves, torn (optional)

A drizzle of balsamic vinegar or lemon juice to lift the flavors (optional)

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1. Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet over moderate heat. Add the onions and the garlic, cover and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are just beginning to soften, about 5 minutes.

2. Stir in the peppers and the salt and saute 1 or 2 minutes longer. Cover, reduce the heat to moderately low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the peppers have begun to soften, 5 to 7 minutes. Uncover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the peppers are very soft, about 15 minutes.

3. Stir in the tomatoes and herbs, if using, and cook until the peppers are meltingly tender and most of the liquid has evaporated, about 15 minutes (it should be the consistency of a thick stew). Adjust the seasoning, adding salt and a little balsamic vinegar or lemon juice to taste.

Per serving: 66 calories, 1 gram protein, 8 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams sugar, 4 grams fat, no cholesterol, 159 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber.

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Makes 8 servings

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Essential Bean Soup, made with white beans such as cannellini, navy or baby limas (see recipe)

4 imported bay leaves (soaked in lukewarm water for 5 minutes)

3 tablespoons prepared black olive paste

2 or 3 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 to 1 1/2 cups freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

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1. Puree the Essential Bean Soup, in batches if necessary, in a food processor or blender until perfectly smooth.

2. Return to the rinsed pot and bring to a simmer; add the bay leaves and simmer until it is pleasantly perfumed with the herb, 5 or 10 minutes. Remove the bay leaves and discard.

3. Place the olive paste in a small bowl and stir in enough olive oil to thin it just enough to drizzle.

4. Serve the soup and swirl some of the olive paste into each serving at the last minute. Pass grated Parmigiano- Reggiano on the side.

Per serving: 353 calories, 24 grams protein, 45 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams sugar, 9 grams fat, 17 milligrams cholesterol, 910 milligrams sodium, 14 grams dietary fiber.

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