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Light & Healthy 2010
nolead ends nolead begins America's Test Kitchen

$35, 302 pp.

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Reviewed by Robin Currie

It sure makes sense that America's Test Kitchen would release its new cookbook, Light & Healthy 2010, in January, doesn't it? Well, the month of resolution is over and we're well into February, the month of regret. So a new cookbook might be just the incentive to lighten up family menus.

While Light & Healthy is not a diet book per se, it does offer just what the title says, lighter and healthier versions of some of our high-fat favorites. Salads such as the Chicken Caesar and the Buffalo Chicken are so good you won't notice the missing fat and calories. The baked croutons for the Caesar were terrific, crunchy, and well-seasoned, and the dressings for both were delicious and creamy.

The turkey meatballs from the Spaghetti and Meatballs recipe are amazing - tender and so full of flavor. I've made these dozens of times (the recipe is also included in America's Test Kitchen's Family Cookbook) and they freeze well in tomato sauce, so make a double or triple batch. I've also experimented with baking them, instead of pan-frying, with great success. (450 degrees for about 25 minutes on a rimmed cookie sheet. I like to use a cookie scoop to portion out and form the meatballs, making them uniform for even cooking.)

But Light & Healthy does have shortcomings. The editors love to drone on and on about the process of perfecting their recipes. While some might find this interesting, I really did think it was overkill. I would rather have more photos.

The Tortilla Soup was a disappointment; way too many steps and not nearly enough flavor. I much prefer Rebecca Rather's Texas Tortilla Soup in her wonderful book, The Pastry Queen, although I will be making the Light & Healthy Baked Tortilla Strips again, for sure.

Pork Lo Mein, which usually lands in the top of the annual unhealthy things to eat list, was superb. While the recipe is time- and prep-intensive, it was definitely worth the extra effort. The noodles, laced with mushrooms, scallions, and pork tenderloin, rivaled any I've ordered from a restaurant and are much better for you. You could easily substitute chicken or tofu, too.

The orange juice and chipotle braised Chicken Soft Tacos are so good I made them twice in one week, to the delight of my family. The next day, we had some of the chicken left over and it made a delicious burrito for lunch.

One recipe from Light & Healthy that was not popular with anyone in my family was the Pasta with Butternut Squash and Sage. It sounded delicious, but it did not deliver. I am not a fan of throwing out food, so I took all the leftovers, added some garlic, turkey sausage, and half-and-half to the pan, and produced a lovely and not-too-bad-for-you dish.

After all, we had eaten light and healthy all week, right?

Makes 6 servings

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1 teaspoon canola oil

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons minced canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce

3/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1/2 cup orange juice

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

11/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed

1 teaspoon yellow mustard

Salt and pepper

12 (6-inch) flour tortillas, warmed

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1. Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Stir in the garlic and chipotles and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in 1/2 cup of the cilantro, the orange juice, and Worcestershire.

2. Nestle the chicken into the skillet and bring the liquid to a simmer. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook until the thickest part of the breasts registers 160 to 165 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, 12 to 18 minutes, flipping them halfway through.

3. Transfer the chicken breasts to a plate. Shred the chicken into bite-size pieces using 2 forks. Meanwhile, continue to simmer the sauce over medium heat until thickened slightly and reduced to 1/4 cup, about 5 minutes.

4. Off the heat, whisk the mustard into the sauce. Stir in the remaining 1/4 cup cilantro and shredded chicken. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with the tortillas and any desired accompaniments.

Note: Toppings aren't necessary for these flavorful tacos, but lettuce, tomato, avocado, or lime wedges are optional.

Per serving: 350 calories, 33 grams protein, 36 grams carbohydrates, 7 grams fat, 65 milligrams cholesterol, 750 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber.EndText