Most anything tastes good folded into the richness of macaroni and cheese, but in the mushroom mecca of Kennett Square, where the fungus is as fresh as it gets, there is a special irresistibility to a gooey slice of macaroni whose lily-shaped pasta tubes are studded with roasted maitakes, shiitakes, and oyster mushrooms.

Add an indulgent Mornay sauce with good cheddar and gruyère, plus a little spark of Dijon mustard, and it is almost as if Talula's Table fused the macaroni casserole with a particularly sublime cream of mushroom soup, topped, of course, with crunchy garlic bread crumbs.

Good for eating at the Table's cafe, or take-home, it will last in the fridge for up to three days. (Here's the recipe.)

— Craig LaBan

Mushroom macaroni and cheese, $12 a pound (¾-pound slices average $8), Talula's Table, 102 W. State St., Kennett Square, 610-444-8255.