Restaurant Chat: From Fishtown to the Shore

Craig LaBan: Good afternoon, my hungry friends, and welcome back – after a three-week hiatus – to the Philly food chat that chews back. It's good to be here, and I'm wondering what you've all been eating worth talking about. But I have to admit, after a couple weeks doing "research" down the Jersey Shore, I'm still in a beachy state of mind. Thus the Ocean City theme to today's Crumb Tracker Quiz. Name the places I ate these three delicacies and you'll win a signed copy of my book: (1) The greatest "almost famous" freshly made boardwalk donuts on the planet; (2) Huli-Huli chicken; (3) An 'upcake.'

Mike: Hi Craig- Missed you here the last few weeks. I have a review for you. Last week for my birthday my wife took me to Sovana Bistro in K. Square. This is how good their pizza is - they sent us the wrong order but we ate it and loved it anyway! The next night she took me to Dilworthtown. We had a good meal but at 5 pm with it not crowded they sat us right next to a party of 7 with 3 LOUD babies! They moved us across the room but until they left we heard loud kids while eating. Where is the awareness factor with restaurants? At 5PM in the summer with not much of a crowd why do that? It didn't ruin a good meal but it didn't make it very special. Food was good, ceaser salad good but very expensive.

Craig: Hi Mike - thanks for the reports from the Western Lands. ... glad to hear Sovana's pizza is still good, even if its servers got your order confused. As for your baby incident at Dilworth, it's hard for me to comment too specifically, as I wasn't there (obviously). But two things: the Dilworthtown is full of small colonial rooms, so if you didn't get moved to another room altogether, that explains why the move didn't help. I have no idea why they couldn't have moved you to another part of the restaurant - except that might have moved your check from one server to the other. I think 5 p.m. is a perfect time for people with kids to eat out at fancy restaurants (if they're so determined), but restaurants with the space should move guests should do so if asked.

Gregg: Hi Craig. I have had several meals at the shore recently, but cannot come up with any from the tracker ... tough one. While I was at the shore, I had a great dinner at the Budakkan at the Pier followed by a great brunch the next day at Downbeach Deli. What made the latter so good was the great bagels. Which leads me to my question ... any recommendations for good bagels in Philly? Also, the food at Budakkan was great, but we felt a little rushed. This has been a theme this summer at many of the casino restaurants (i.e. Cuba Libre, Continental, etc.). In fact one of them had us out in 50 minutes. Have you noticed this trend? Any advice on how to deal with it?

Craig: Gregg - you've hit the nail on the head with those new casino restaurants. We had a weekend lunch at Buddakan when they weren't busy, and rushing wasn't an issue, but I definitely experienced that fast-paced feeling at many AC restaurants (in particular). At one place (to be named in print later), the waiter came back to take our orders several times within the first five minutes - we kept asking for more time, so he just disappeared for 20 minutes. Some of these places are doing a huge volume, so the pacing is deliberate. (The chef at Marty Grim's new Inlet in Somers Point told me they served 5,300 diners on Memorial Day weekend alone, their opening weekend.) Many of the casino restaurants, though, believe (and quite accurately in many cases) that their customers are in a huge rush to get back to the craps tables. If this isn't true for you, then tell that server (with a friendly smile, of course) you're in no rush.

Alyce: In your shore eating, have you tried the Holiday Snack Bar in Beach Haven on LBI? It's a cute little old fashioned place, and they make their own sweet and sour sauce and red pepper relish for the burgers. It's so tasty, and such a neat experience to eat there.

Craig: Alyce - no, I only wish I'd had that recommendation before my Shore trip. That sounds like a nice, honest to goodness old-fashioned burger. Instead, I found myself eating a dried-out disappointment of a kobe burger (for $16!) at the gussied-up Gables around the corner. At least I could soothe the disappointment with an iced hot chocolate at the Chocolate Bar next door.

M.J.L.: 1) donuts have to be Browns 2) Huli-Huli chicken is the Hula Grill 3) Upcake, i think Dixie Picnic

Craig: Wow, M.J.L. - were you FOLLOWING ME? That's one of the quickest Tracker victories in history. You've definitely earned a book. I have to say, there is no sensation that tells me the summer has arrived than riding down that boardwalk in the AM to get the donuts at Brown's. The sound of bike bells triggers and waves crashing against the beach nearby triggers a Pavlovian reflex in me to devour at least half-a-dozen of those crispy, fresh-from-the-oil-bath pastry rings.

attyfood: This past weekend we hit up the new Sabrina's. I have to say, just as good (and filling!) as the original. Same menu, and the kitschy diner decor works, although less charming than the rowhouse setting of the original. By the way - the chef's table at Lacroix was out of this world!

Craig: Attyfood - that's great to hear. I rode past the new Sabrina's this morning and was pleased to see it had opened in my absence. If only because I'm greedy to have more decent places open up near the paper. Their stuffed French toast and polenta fries rock. Sometimes, though, these quirky spots work in part because of WHERE they are. I'll be curious to see if it can generate the kind of traffic the Italian Market one brings. Given the site's dreary history of failed diners, it definitely can't count on charm. ... I'm also glad to hear Levin is still cranking out the good stuff at Lacroix. He's a very talented chef.

Alan: Regarding bagels in Philly - this has been a problem ever since Brooklyn Bagels (Bustleton, above Castor) closed a few years ago. There are a number of options that are "not bad", but none that I know of that are truly great. Try South St. Bagels (S. 3rd, just below South), or one of the various Bagel Factory locations (I'm partial to their everything bagel.) Kaplan's N 3, around Poplar, I think) was pretty good, last i tried it (about a year ago). Now, finding a great rye bread - that's a REAL challenge. (Kaplan's is the best I've had in the city, so far.)

Craig: Oh yes, the bagel question. Forgot to address that one. Thanks, Alan, for what are all good suggestions. I've had a very difficult time finding a bagel even good enough to call my favorite around here. I agree with some of your recommendations - I prefer the one (can't remember name at this exact moment) on Delaware Ave. in the strip mall just south of Washington. The others that I've found pretty good come from a baglery called Roling's in Elkins Park. In a pinch, though, the Manhattan Bagel place just north of Rittenhouse Square works. I'm not normally an MG kind of eater - but at least they have a well-boiled chew to them that most of the city's wonderbread rings do not. This is not entirely a Philly-only problem. I think even the great bagel places of NYC have slipped. My favorites there remain Absolute Bagels and Columbia Bagels on the Upper West Side.

Alan: One thing to watch out for about South St. Bagels - they have "French Toast" bagels. It's really - well, let me say "not kosher." But then I'm a purist - if you don't want to put cream cheese and lox on it, it ain't a bagel! (The old Brooklyn Bagel Bakers Union would be horrified!)

Craig: Yes, Alan, all those mutated bagel creations scare me, too. A blueberry belongs nowhere near a bagel, and neither does cinnamon raisin. It can only go downhill from there, but the decline of bagel culture has been well documented.

M.J.L.: Great, looking forward to the book (how do i get the copy?) Also, now that i've got your attention as someone who enjoys the shore, what are your thoughts on the cheesesteak scene down the shore? Voltaco's in O.C. or Bradley's in S.H.? if you've got a third that's in that company I'll try it this weekend.

Craig: M.J.L - please email me your mailing info to claban@phillynews.com. Also, as for steaks, they really are not a Shore specialty. I'm a huge fan of everything Voltaco's makes - i think their hoagies are up there with Philly's best - but the last time I had a steak there, I didn't love it. It was years ago, and I can't remember my issue, but I do remember the verdict. I haven't been to Bradley's, but I think the best cheesesteak I've eaten down the Shore was easily at the White House in AC. It's all in the bread - and no doubt, Voltaco's uses a similar crusty Italian roll from Rando, a nearby rival of WH"s cross-street bakery, Formica. But I think the sandwich had better balance.

Ed Mulhern: Tracker Quiz answers Hula Grill, Charlie Browns Dixie Picnic

Craig: Ed ... sorry, you were just a tad late with these answers. But they were almost the right ones. You've obviously got the stuff to become a Crumb Tracker, so get started early next week!

Evan: Craig, regarding your review of tre scalini, I was a bit saddened to hear that some of their pastas are no longer homemade. Do you know whether this is the case for one of my favorite dishes, the pasta nero (with lump crabmeat and shrimp)?

Craig: Yes, Evan, it's true, and I was a little disappointed by this, too. But the fact is the pastas Franca DiRenzo is serving are made by Talluto's and they are excellent - I was convinced they were homemade until she told me otherwise. In fact, her pasta nero has always been made by Talluto's (this was true even during my first review of the restaurant several years ago). I had a distinct memory of discussing the pasta alla chitarra with her many years ago, though, and how labor intensive it was, kneading the hard dough for like 20 minutes. I believe that it just became a bit much to keep up, especially as DiRenzo's mother (and kitchen companion) became ill over the last few years. In this case, however, I really feel the quality has not suffered. The chitarra specialties there - with the light bolognese, or especially beneath what seems like a bushel of garlicky, spicy cockle clams - are memorable.

Barbara: Hi Craig, I wanted to send a quick word of thanks to the chefs at West Chester's Iron Hill Brewery. I took some friends from out of town there with the caveat that it was brewery food and the beer would be far more memorable than the food. The evening we were there, they had a Thai food theme which seemed risky but the pan-seared mussels with Thai sauce were fantastic. And my friend's beer taster ended up being a whopping 44 ounces combined of all their seasonal brews. Overall, a great experience that made me a fan again and made my friends ask to visit again on their return trip.

Craig: Barbara - thanks for this enthusiastic report on Iron Hill in West Chester. I don't remember being so wowed myself the last time I ate out there (it's been a while), but I've been impressed with some of their more ambitious special-edition beers, of late, so perhaps the kitchen is catching up, too.

Rob_SpringGarden: What's the word about Goji Restaurant at 20th and Hamilton? a lot of my friends and co-workers say its great - any plans for a future review?

Craig: Rob - It's been a long while since I visited Goji, but perhaps it's time I return. I heard they had gotten a new chef around the new year, and the place has many friends. I really did like their homey rice balls. But overall, my early visits there a year ago were not fabulous (and why is it that such a nice-looking place has to stick a giant TV over the dining room?) but I hope the good reports are for real. Hmmm ... now I'm hungry for sushi.

Steve: Craig, have you ever tried Phoebe's bbq? They only have takeout, but I think it is really good. I like all the barbecued meats, and the mac and cheese is excellent.

Craig: Steve - I used to think fairly well of Phoebe's until it was sold by the original owner a few years ago. But it seemed to go into a noticeable decline afterwards. The ribs were not as well cared for (very fatty), and they were all wrapped-up in foil for warm keeping, essentially steaming them into a floppy mess. Perhaps they've improved recently and are worth another look. I'm always up for a hopeful rack of good 'cue.

foiegraslover: Hey Craig, kind of a vague question here. I have been looking all over the area for anything new and exciting to gobble up, but I am finding that everyone follows whatever trend (i.e.- tapas) is cool. Is there a cusine that you have seen or an area that you have visited which has yet to be mainstreamed?

Craig: foie - I haven't seen anything totally new and exciting concepts since I went out of town for a couple weeks, except for what seems like a bump in some bright new prepared-foods markets, like Pumpkin Market on South Street (on the 1600 block I believe). One other slightly surprising "new thing" to check out is all the sudden activity in Fishtown, long talked about as the next great "northern frontier," but it actually seems to be happening. There is the updated comfort food on Girard Avenue at the Hot Potato Cafe, the always good Johnny Brenda's, the well-spoken-of Modo Mio from the ex-Rembrandt's chef that I'm looking forward to trying, and a number of other places rising up Frankford Ave., deep into the 'hood, like Kenbo's Paddy's Well, a pub that really smokes its ribs (with a Bushmill's bbq sauce) and the very cool, hipsterish Rocket Cat Cafe, which actually just brewed me the very tasty red eye that has fueled me through this chat!

Craig: Actually, I'm getting to the bottom of that red eye, so that must mean this chat has come to a close. Thanks to everyone for joining me for a lively discussion after the 3-week layoff. I'll be back next week, but with a bonus - my first-ever guest! David Moore, of Moore Bros. fame, will be joining us to answer your wine questions. The invite was sparked by an email exchange regarding what it actually costs to produce "real wine" (after I touted a quite drinkable $6 bottle of St.-Chinian) but Mr. Moore is a font on a wide variety of wine topics, so this is your chance to ask away. Our chat goes BYOS(ommelier). Until then, be well, and may you all eat (and drink) something worth bragging about!