A bag of egg noodles; two pounds of yellow split peas and dried navy beans; a bottle of orange juice; two boxes of scalloped potatoes; two cans each of chunk light tuna, green peas, collard greens, sweet potatoes in light syrup, and sliced Bartlett pears; a quart of shelf-stable milk.

Such were the ingredients recently found inside one of the free boxes of food handed out by Philadelphia in partnership with two of its largest food banks. The assortment had all the makings of tuna casserole — but then what?

Some of the recent contents inside the free box of food handed out by the city, Philabundance, and Share Food Program.
Share Food Program
Some of the recent contents inside the free box of food handed out by the city, Philabundance, and Share Food Program.

We put the question to five Philly chefs who have some experience with surprise ingredients: They’ve all competed on the Food Network show Chopped.

The contents of the city’s food boxes, distributed twice a week at 40 sites, change from week to week, depending on what Share Food Program and Philabundance, which supply the food, have in their warehouses. On Mondays, the boxes contain dry goods: canned fruits, vegetables, and proteins; dried beans and fruit; pancake mix and chili. On Thursdays, they’re focused on produce, ideally “the hard seven” — apples, potatoes, cabbage, carrots, onions, oranges, and sweet potatoes — but recent boxes have included salad mix, grapes, bananas, and mushrooms.

We asked the Chopped chefs to look at some previous boxes, taking into account their unpredictability, and come up with ideas using box ingredients and affordable pantry staples. Here’s what they whipped up.

PAULA ALENCAR

Paula Alencar’s stint on Chopped featured lamb merguez, patatas brava, and chocolate-dipped churros — lucky ingredients for the then-Jamonera sous chef, who grew up in Brazil. (Most recently, she was a sous at the Fitler Club.)

Chef Paula Alencar came to Philly from her native Brazil. Most recently a sous chef at the Fitler Club, she specializes in gluten-free recipes.
Paula Alencar
Chef Paula Alencar came to Philly from her native Brazil. Most recently a sous chef at the Fitler Club, she specializes in gluten-free recipes.

Alencar specializes in gluten-free cooking, and that hasn’t stopped her from riding “the sourdough wave” during the pandemic. But she included all-purpose flour — what most people have at home — in two of her food-box recipes (see below): mushroom and bean croquetas — or croquettes, the versatile crispy-creamy fried snack — and a catch-all dish called assadeiro, after the pan it’s cooked in.

Assadeiro translates to blender pie, Alencar said, “because people will mix the batter in a blender, or fridge pie, because you’re using whatever’s in the fridge ... It makes almost like a soft, fluffy, bready quiche / savory cake,” she said.

Mushroom and bean croquetas from chef Paula Alencar, served with her favorite dipping sauce and lime.
Paula Alencar
Mushroom and bean croquetas from chef Paula Alencar, served with her favorite dipping sauce and lime.

For actual dessert, Alencar suggests making a form of brigadeiros, a chocolaty condensed milk truffle coated in chocolate sprinkles (she calls them jimmies). “This is a great recipe to get the kids involved on the prep,” she added.

Follow Alencar on Instagram: @p_salencar

MICHAEL JOYCE

Michael Joyce has worked in several Philly kitchens — the Striped Bass, Root, Barbuzzo — but he’s drawn much of his culinary inspiration from farm-driven cooking he did in Italy, at Dan Barber’s Blue Hill restaurant, and at Bolete and Molinari’s in his native Bethlehem. His expertise in seasonality got him invited to compete in a vegetable-centric episode of Chopped, on which he also convinced judge Martha Stewart to try chocolate-covered crickets.

Chef Mike Joyce, who was most recently at Barbuzzo, originally hails from Bethlehem.
Kate Kelly
Chef Mike Joyce, who was most recently at Barbuzzo, originally hails from Bethlehem.

Joyce might prefer farm-fresh vegetables (and the city boxes do include some), but he knows how to work with the canned and frozen variety, too. For his recipes (below), he suggested a take on shepherd’s pie that uses canned vegetables and beef, as well as a breakfast casserole that layers cooked bacon, peppers, tomatoes, and potatoes underneath a batter of pancake mix, eggs, milk, and cheese. As it cooks up, “it’s almost like a souffle. The flour in the pancake mix is there to kind of bind and give that egg and milk structure.”

For dessert: canned fruit cobbler. Because the fruit is already sliced and submerged in syrup, “you can open the can and throw it in there.” Top with a spiced crumble made from nuts, flour, sugar, and butter.

Follow Joyce on Instagram: @m_joyce8

GREGORY HEADEN

Gregory Headen’s introduction to cooking came via a culinary program offered by Philabundance, one of the suppliers of the city’s food box contents. He worked full time as a sous chef at Center City’s Hard Rock Cafe while he went through culinary school. After he graduated, he got a job working with Georges Perrier of Le Bec-Fin.

Headen’s episode of Chopped aired last year; he won cooking chorizo and smoked cod polenta with watermelon radish salad, as well as duck bacon hash with chicken and waffle sauce. Most recently, he was executive chef at South jazz club, though he had been looking at spaces to start a restaurant of his own — the Black Plate — before the pandemic hit. (You can still try his food via pickup popups.)

Chef Gregory Headen started cooking at the Hard Rock Cafe. He worked there while he went to culinary school, then got a job working for Georges Perrier at Le Bec-Fin.
Gregory Headen
Chef Gregory Headen started cooking at the Hard Rock Cafe. He worked there while he went to culinary school, then got a job working for Georges Perrier at Le Bec-Fin.

Headen’s suggestions for the food boxes reflect his French and elevated soul cuisine leanings. He’d simmer chopped vegetables (carrots, mushrooms, potatoes) in garlic bacon fat to play on beef bourguignon. Add red wine, reduce by half, then add canned beef and let it simmer till warm. On the side, he’d serve instant mashed potatoes doctored with butter, cream (or shelf-stable milk), and garlic.

He’d mix one part pureed canned sweet potatoes with two parts flour, eggs, and salt to make dough for sweet potato gnocchi. Cut into small squares and boil in salted water until they float. Serve with blistered tomatoes and peas or whatever canned vegetables you have: Heat olive oil and butter in a skillet, then add vegetables, and season with salt and pepper. Toss in the gnocchi in the pan, then add some pasta water to make a sauce. Fresh or dried herbs would add even more flavor.

Like Alencar, Headen also thought of croquettes. He’d base them on tuna — maybe spiced with Lawry’s seasoned salt or McCormick’s black garlic powder (his favorite) — and serve with creamy split peas (simmer with water until creamy, then add butter, herbs, salt, and pepper) and canned collards greens, which he ate growing up in West Philly. Warm them up with onion and garlic, and add a little hot sauce.

Follow Headen on Instagram: @chefgregoryheaden

AZIZA YOUNG

During the pandemic, chef Aziza Young has been cooking platters of New American comfort food like smoked mac and cheese and sweet potato waffles with smoked duck, as well as making food for low-income families and senior citizens out of South Philly Barbacoa’s kitchen. That’s not exactly what she usually does as a private chef for two Eagles players, but as she said, “I’m not working anyway, so I might as well feed people.”

Young grew up in Cheltenham and has cooked at restaurants in downtown Philly and Harrisburg. She was executive chef at St. Benjamin’s Brewing Co. when she appeared on Chopped. She made vinaigrette out of a rainbow gelatin mold and dessert out of a basket with cocktail onions and salmon ice cream.

West Philly-born and Cheltenham-raised, chef Aziza Young is a private chef for a couple Eagles players.
Aziza Young
West Philly-born and Cheltenham-raised, chef Aziza Young is a private chef for a couple Eagles players.

Her suggestions for the city’s food boxes require less fortitude. Use the low-fat milk and tuna fish to make cream of tuna: Add 3 tablespoons of butter to a pot, then add diced onions and garlic and cook for 2 minutes. Add about ¼ cup flour to make a roux. Then add about a cup of milk, and whisk until it’s smooth and creamy. If it’s too thick, don’t worry; the water from the tuna will thin it. If it’s too thin, add cheese, which will thicken the sauce as well as add flavor. Serve over toast. Use the same method for creamed collards, using the greens instead of tuna (be sure to add cheese).

Make more roux for an egg noodle pasta with peas. Thin the roux with milk to create a cream sauce, then set aside. Cook the noodles until al dente, saving some pasta cooking liquid for the sauce; don’t rinse the noodles. Then sauté canned peas, onions, and garlic with whatever seasonings (Young likes Sazón) are on hand. Toss the pasta in sauce and add the sautéed veggies on top.

Onions and garlic are crucial for one’s pantry. Young recommends blending them with beans — if they’re dried, soak overnight, then cook with fresh water or stock and seasonings — to make a bean dip. Cooked or canned white beans can also be mixed into canned chili for a two-bean chili.

Use the canned sweet potatoes to make candied yams: Combine sugar, butter or margarine, some syrup from the can, and cinnamon with the potatoes and chopped-up pitted plums (or other dried fruit) for texture. Bake for 30 minutes at 350°F.

If using pancake mix, zhuzh it up by adding butter, milk, and eggs instead of just water, Young said. To take it further, add canned fruit or sweet potatoes to the batter to make fruit pancakes.

Follow Young on Instagram: @zigga222; email her at chefzbooks@yahoo.com.

MACKENZIE HILTON

Vintage Syndicate executive chef Mackenzie Hilton has been on Chopped three times, so she’s a pro at handling surprise ingredients. Hilton, the mother of a 19-month-old daughter, has been dipping into the depths of her own pantry during the pandemic, making her mother’s rendition of Julia Child’s spaghetti Marco Polo: It’s simply cooked spaghetti tossed with canned tuna, canned pimentos, black olives, grated cheddar, olive oil, salt and pepper, parsley, and scallions. “The cheddar really makes it,” Hilton said.

Executive chef Mackenzie Hilton leads the Vintage Syndicate, which operates Time, Vintage, and Heritage restaurants in Center City.
Handout
Executive chef Mackenzie Hilton leads the Vintage Syndicate, which operates Time, Vintage, and Heritage restaurants in Center City.

Hilton recommends treating cooked beans, split peas, or lentils like mashed potatoes: Mash them with butter and your favorite seasonings. Use leftovers to make pan-fried veggie burgers: Fold in drained collard greens or any other vegetables (if using raw veggies, make sure they are grated or chopped finely), mix in an egg and a little flour or potato flakes to make the puree thick enough to form patties. Pan-fry and top with cheese, sautéed mushrooms, and some salad mix.

Like Young, Hilton recommends adding fruit to pancakes, and maybe topping them with syrup from the fruit’s can. She also suggests a way to make whipped “cream” with powdered milk: Whisk equal parts ice-cold water and powdered milk on high with a hand mixer until fluffy, add a little sugar, and continue beating until thicken.

Hilton echoed Young again by suggesting creamed tuna, which she grew up on in Florida. “It’s super comfort food for me,” she said. “I know it might sound weird if you’ve never had it, but it’s really versatile and can be served over anything from pasta to toast to potatoes.”

Follow Hilton on Instagram: @chefmackenziehilton

Egg, Pancake, and Cheese Casserole


This is a great way to use up whatever may be in the fridge: Use cooked bacon, sausage, or any breakfast meat, plus frozen or canned vegetables (broccoli, tomatoes, peppers, green beans) as well as frozen hash browns or leftover scalloped potatoes. As the pancake mix cooks, it will rise in a fluffy layer above the breakfast casserole.


1 cup pancake mix

4 whole eggs

2 cups milk

2 cups grated cheese (any kind will work)

Cooked breakfast meat

Frozen or canned vegetables

Frozen or leftover potatoes


Combine the pancake mix, eggs, milk, and cheese in a bowl. Preheat oven to 375°F.


Grease a 9-by-13-inch pan. Layer other ingredients into the pan: cooked bacon or breakfast meat, followed by chopped peppers and tomatoes or canned vegetables — whatever’s on hand. Add a layer of frozen hash browns or leftover scalloped potatoes, if available. Make sure to sufficiently fill out the pan; halfway to a third up the side of the pan should be adequate. (If you have fewer ingredients, use a smaller pan.)


Pour the egg-pancake mix over the casserole. Top with a little more cheese.


Bake for about 45 minutes or until the center looks and feels slightly firm when jiggled.


— Michael Joyce

Bean and Mushroom Croquettes


These bean-based croquettes are similar to acaraje, a common snack in Brazil. Any bean will work — as will canned beans; if using, just skip the soaking. If available, sprinkle chopped fresh herbs over the croquettes after cooking. Serve hot with your favorite dip, such as hot sauce, chimichurri, or aioli.


1 pound dried beans (can be any bean)

2 quarts water

1 medium onion, diced

8 ounces mushrooms, diced

1 clove garlic, minced

¼ teaspoon ground cumin or coriander

Salt and ground black pepper, to taste

2 eggs

1 cup all-purpose flour, more if needed

1 cup bread crumbs, more if needed

2 cups vegetable oil


Soak the beans in the water overnight. The next day, strain the beans and, in a stockpot, cover the beans with clean water. Cook until soft.


In a skillet over high heat, sweat the onions in oil. Reduce to medium heat and add the mushrooms and garlic. Season with salt, black pepper, and cumin. Cook until soft, then set aside.


Once the beans are soft, strain them, reserving 1 cup of the broth. With a food processor, potato masher, or a wooden spoon, work the beans until they form a puree. If needed, add a little bit of the broth.


Add the onions and mushrooms and mix well until incorporated. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Add 1 egg and combine. The mixture should be a little sticky, enough to hold its shape when rolled (if it’s still too dry, add more broth).


Roll into little croquettes, around 2 ounces each. Set in the fridge.


Arrange the flour, a beaten egg with 1 teaspoon of water, and the bread crumbs in separate bowls. Roll the croquettes in flour, then the egg, and finally the bread crumbs. Set them aside.


Heat the vegetable oil in a deep pot over medium-high heat until it reaches 350°F. Fry the croquettes until golden brown.


— Paula Alencar

Savory tuna pie

The eggy base of this dish isn’t custardy like quiche; it’s closer to a savory cake. The topping is highly flexible — use whatever vegetables and protein you have to top it. Be sure to season the topping for the best flavor.


For the top:

1 onion, diced

1 can of vegetables (peas, carrots, corn, mixed, whatever is available)

1 can of tuna

1 teaspoon dried oregano

Salt and ground black pepper

Olive oil


For the batter:

3 eggs

1 cup whole milk

1½ cup all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons grated Parmesan or other cheese

1 tablespoon baking powder


Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a bowl, mix the onion, vegetables, tuna, and oregano. Season with salt, pepper, and olive oil.


In a separate bowl, beat the eggs. Add the milk, flour, grated cheese, 1 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Mix until incorporated. Finally, add the baking powder and fold it into the mixture.


Grease a 9-inch baking dish and coat with flour. Pour the batter in the prepared pan. Top with the tuna and veggies, lightly smoothing the surface with a spoon.


Bake for 45 minutes or until the cake is cooked through when a knife is inserted into the middle. Serve warm.


— Paula Alencar

Shepherd’s Pie


Toss in whatever vegetables are around for this adaptation of shepherd’s pie, which traditionally uses ground beef. This recipe uses canned beef, which is sometimes stocked by Share Food Program, but ground beef, turkey, pork, or leftover chicken or beef, chopped up, would also work as the base.


2 teaspoons vegetable oil

1 onion, diced

1 carrot, diced

1 clove garlic, minced

1 can of beef, drained

2 tablespoons flour (or pancake mix)

1 cup water (or stock, if available)

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce (optional)

½ cup frozen or canned peas

½ cup frozen or canned corn

Cooked instant (or homemade) mashed potatoes


Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a 9-inch square pan.


Sauté the onion, carrot, and garlic in oil for about 5 minutes. Stir in the beef. Add the flour to coat and cook for 2 minutes.


Add water or stock and Worcestershire, if using. Bring to a boil, then reduce to heat to medium-low. Simmer for 10 minutes, until sauce is thickened slightly. Season with salt and pepper.


Pour the contents of the pot into the prepared pan. Top with the frozen or canned vegetables, then layer on the prepared mashed potatoes. Smooth out top with a rubber spatula. Bake for about 25 minutes or until the top is golden brown.


Remove from oven and rest for 15 minutes before diving in.


— Michael Joyce

Canned Fruit Cobbler


Canned fruit is usually cooked beforehand and packaged in syrup, which means you don’t need to macerate the fruit in this recipe. If you prefer to use fresh fruit, follow the instructions for the crumble, but mix the fruit — chopped apples or pears, berries, etc. — with more sugar and a little lemon juice and allow it to sit for a few minutes before adding it to the pan.


¾ cup chopped almonds, walnuts, cashews, or any nut

½ cup flour or pancake mix

¼ cup brown or white sugar

4 tablespoons cold butter

¼ teaspoon cinnamon, dried ginger, nutmeg, or any warm spice

2 cans of fruit (can be one kind or a mix), drained


To make crumble topping: In a food processor or with a pastry cutter or two forks, combine nuts, flour, sugar, cinnamon, and butter. Work the mixture until a crumbly mass forms.


Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter a 9-inch baking dish. Add the drained fruit to dish. Top with the crumble.


Bake for about 30 minutes or until the top is golden brown and fruit is bubbly. Serve with whipped cream or ice cream.


— Michael Joyce

Sweet Potato Truffle


This is a more nutritious take on the Brazilian treat brigadeiros, which traditionally are made with condensed milk. Here, the starch in the sweet potatoes binds the truffles together, and cocoa powder gives it chocolaty flavor. Chocolate jimmies are typical, but rainbow jimmies work, too.


1 can sweet potatoes

2 tablespoons cocoa powder

1 teaspoon vanilla extract (optional)

Chocolate jimmies


Strain the sweet potatoes, saving a bit of the syrup. Use a food processor, potato masher, or wooden spoon to smash the potatoes until pureed as smoothly as possible (if you prefer more texture, puree less). Add the cocoa powder and the vanilla extract, if using. Mix until all ingredients are incorporated. If the mixture gets too dry, add some syrup.


Shape the mixture into 15 small truffles. Roll them in the jimmies. Keep refrigerated.


— Paula Alencar