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15 courses of sushi in an hour? It’s the $95 omakase at Kichi.

Kichi, a new sushi option in Washington Square West, was founded by a chef who saw the omakase formula work in New York City.

Sushi chef Alex Jiang puts together an omakase meal at Kichi Omakase, 112 S. 12th St.
Sushi chef Alex Jiang puts together an omakase meal at Kichi Omakase, 112 S. 12th St.Read moreMichael Klein / Staff

Omakase, generally speaking, is a leisurely couple of hours out of your evening. Customers place themselves in the hands of the sushi chef across the counter for intimate, multiple-course meals.

But like so much of life, omakase has been revved up. A leisurely couple of hours? In the last few years, New York’s sushi scene has seen an explosion of restaurants featuring omakase experiences completed in an hour, and for less than $100.

Economically, these zoomakases make sense. Set menus help manage food and labor costs, and turning over stools every 60 minutes or so means more revenue.

Jeremy Zhu took note of this while working at Takumi Omakase on the Lower East Side and Omakase by Korami in Hell’s Kitchen. Zhu observed that Philadelphia did not have such an omakase option, so he packed up his knives and blowtorches and moved here earlier this year. “Before that, I’d never been to Philadelphia before,” said Zhu, who moved to the United States from China 13 years ago as an 18-year-old.

Earlier this summer, he opened Kichi Omakase (as in “lucky”) in a former popcorn shop at 112 S. 12th St. in Washington Square West, offering 15 courses for $95. Cheery, done up in light woods, it’s open daily, BYOB, with reservations on Resy.

Zhu said he orders fish directly from Japan — though he insists on bluefin tuna from Spain — and gets shipments three or four times a week.

Don’t expect your meal to commence at the top of the hour, especially later in the evening. But they have the one-hour timing down pretty well. I was signing my credit card receipt after 55 minutes.

Who needs the speed? The couple next to me, offering sake they had brought, said they had a sitter for two hours. The young women at the other end of the sushi bar were revving up for a night out, as were the guys sitting at a smaller, ancillary sushi bar.

Kichi’s customers didn’t seem to be building their evenings around the experience, as might be the case at such destinations as Royal Izakaya (the city’s gold standard of omakase, at $230 a head), Sakana ($148), Hiroki ($155), or Morimoto ($165). They paused their conversations to ooh and ahh when chefs broke out the gold spray to gild a caviar topping, and they trained their cell cameras on the Wagyu as the chefs blasted the beef with torches.

The courses flowed quickly from the three chefs: amberjack, fluke, Spanish mackerel, sweet shrimp topped with sea urchin, kohada (gizzard shad), scallop with charcoal sea salt, king salmon, medium fatty tuna, bluefin with truffle mushroom, uni, and eel with foie gras.

This night, dessert wasn’t part of the deal, but Zhu said he does offer ice cream-filled fruits. You can also get additional courses to supplement, such as a toro scallop hand roll ($17) or Wagyu uni ($20).

Kichi won’t be the lone entrant in the sub-$100 omakase category in Philadelphia for too long. Sushi by Bou, also a New York import, is said to be close to announcing three locations, including the former Omakase by Yanaga at 1832 Frankford Ave. A few blocks from that Fishtown location, Yuhiro is under construction on the corner of Susquehanna Avenue and Blair Street, just off Frankford Avenue. All are targeting fall.