Lovat Square debuts in Chestnut Hill as a wine shop, and there’s a restaurant on the way, too

Since moving to Glenside in 2016, Brooklyn transplants Damien Graef and Robyn Semien have frequented the Evergreen Cheese Shop in Chestnut Hill, located in a charming courtyard that fringes a parking lot off East Evergreen Avenue, steps from Germantown Avenue. As time went on, the couple took note of two empty buildings next door to the cheese shop, the former homes of Top of the Hill Market, which closed in 2019, and Mimi’s Cafe, which closed in 2022.

As entrepreneurs — the couple own a Williamsburg wine shop together, and Semien runs the podcast company Placement Theory — their gears started turning. “We’d always had this loose idea that maybe someday we’d open [another] wine store, but the logistics are hard,” Semien said.

In 2023, they chatted up John Ingersoll, Evergreen Cheese’ owner, who referred them to the landlord for the space at 184 E. Evergreen Ave.

Graef and Semien were not entirely sure what they wanted to create. “We said, ‘Let’s put one foot in front of the other and see how far we get,’” said Graef. “Turns out, pretty far.”

After sitting dark for four-plus years, the Evergreen Avenue courtyard will light up again this week with the opening of Lovat Square, which the couple plan to unfold in stages: first as a bottle shop, then as a garden restaurant, and eventually as a full bar and dining room.

Lovat Square’s bottle shop and tasting room opens Thursday, with about 30 seats, wines by the glass, and a small menu of snacks. The wine selection — just under 400 labels, with about 200 more on the way — doubles as both retail inventory and will become the backbone of the restaurant’s wine list.

Thursday’s opening is a hopeful sign for Chestnut Hill, stung from the recent closings of Iron Hill Brewery and Campbell’s Place. Other coming attractions in the near future will be the Blue Warbler, a day-into-evening restaurant at Germantown and Willow Grove Avenue, and a reopening of Fiesta Pizza on Germantown Avenue near Gravers Lane.

Before relocating from New York with their two children, Semien and Graef opened the Brooklyn wine shop Bibber & Bell in 2013. Since 2022, Graef has been lead sommelier at Jean-Georges at the Four Seasons Hotel. Semien spent 16 years at This American Life and now executive-produces Question Everything, a show focused on journalism in America.

Lovat Square — pronounced “love it,” named after a shade of green often used in tweed — will start with a by-the-glass program of about 15 wines, though Graef expects that number to fluctuate as additional bottles are opened for tastings, events, and informal pours. Snacks — house-made pickles, focaccia, sour cream soubise with potato chips (with optional trout or ossetra caviar), and a cheese plate created by Evergreen’s Ingersoll — will accompany the wine during the initial phase. More substantial food will come later as the outdoor and indoor dining spaces open.

“I think of the wine-shop phase as a cocktail party: small bites while we build toward the main course,” he said.

Graef is focusing on independent winemakers. “You’re not going to find Josh or Caymus [wines] here,” Graef said. “But we’ll have something for the person who likes that style. The throughline is small producers who are serious about their land and what they’re making.”

The shelves skew European, with a particular emphasis on Italy and France, but also include wines from the United States, South America, and Eastern Europe. There’s a long table devoted just to Champagne and other bubbles.

The spring opening of the courtyard garden will expand the menu into full dinner service, with seating for about 70. Just under half of those seats are expected to be under a canopy by late summer, extending usability into the shoulder seasons.

Lovat Square’s final phase, targeted for late fall, will bring a full-service restaurant and cocktail bar, including an 18-seat bar and counter seating along the front windows of the former Mimi’s, a separate building in the courtyard.

Graef, born in the Bay Area but raised in New Jersey, has spent his career in restaurants, beginning as a dishwasher at 13 before moving through kitchens and into front-of-house roles. In the early 2000s he worked at Il Buco in New York, where he met Semien (also a Bay Area native) and Lovat Square manager Patricia Jo Peacock. “I thought I knew something about wine [then], but that was very short-lived,” Semien said.

At the time, Graef was a beer-only drinker — and “not like great beer or anything: Negra Modelo and Yuengling.”

While Graef was at Il Buco, wine director Roberto Paris demystified wine for him. “Getting to meet winemakers for the first time and having them eat family meal with us and get to taste their wine and talk about these little corners of Italy that they were coming from made it more accessible for me,” he said. “That really turned me onto all of this, and then I just fell deep down that hole and have not gotten out since. And it’s only got worse.”

Graef later worked at Chanterelle in TriBeCa before running Aurora in Brooklyn, known for its Italian wine list. As Lovat Square ramps up, he is transitioning to a part-time role at the Four Seasons.

The Chestnut Hill project, the couple said, reflects both their professional histories and their lives in the neighborhood.

“We’re trying to build our favorite place,” Graef said.

Lovat Square, 184 E. Evergreen Ave., lovatsquare.com. Initial hours: noon to 10 p.m. Thursday to Sunday.