Meetinghouse fills Memphis Tap’s corner bar space in Kensington

Every neighborhood deserves a chill drop-in bar like Memphis Taproom, and it appears that its successor, Meetinghouse, is already on the right track at Cumberland and Memphis Streets in Kensington. It soft-opened recently, and — after some social-media attention from the previous owner — instantly drew a packed house.

Meetinghouse’s owners — Keith Shore (a former art director for Mikkeller), Marty West (a former director of operations at Tired Hands Brewing), Colin McFadden (a former Tired Hands head brewer), and chef Drew DiTomo (formerly chef de cuisine of Amis and current chef consultant on Servant, the Apple TV+ series) — have retained Memphis Tap’s barroom bones while lightening it up and adding artsy blue wall tiles, created by Shore, behind the bar.

What’s new is a merchandise counter just inside the hitherto-unused side door on Memphis Street; walk in and snag canned beers to go, plus shirts and random items such as copies of Swill magazine and Garbage Pail Kids parody Craft Brewers cards.

They’re going for simplicity with just five beers: Memphis Tap holdover Orval, Guinness, and three house brews identified as “pale,” “dark,” and “hoppy,” respectively. South Jersey’s Tonewood Brewing makes them.

The simplicity extends to DiTomo’s menu, executed by chef Ethan Sobin. Among the dishes is a hot roast beef sandwich, a turkey club, and — in keeping with the solid vegan options at this address — a vegan version of a pressed “bikini” sandwich with greens and cauliflower.

The chocolate pot de crème is a rendition of the classic served at Dmitri’s.

Meetinghouse, 2331 E. Cumberland St. Hours: 4 to 11 p.m. Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday; 4 p.m. to midnight Friday, 11 a.m. to midnight Saturday, and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday. Closed Tuesday.