Ramen rising

Ramen can be so much more than a plastic pack of bargain noodles. In Japan (as well as Los Angeles and New York City), artisan renditions of the usually meat-based soup with threadlike noodles has become a cold-weather comfort-food obsession. Until now, Philly has had far too few serious attempts (with Morimoto and Sampan leading the way.) But Doma has stepped to the front of that short line with its recently debuted bowl of pork-broth noodles. The broth is intensely rich, steeped on-and-off for three days from bones, shoulder meat, ginger, leeks, and feet - which lend a distinctive cloudiness to the brew. The snappy noodles are imported from Japan. Then there are tender slices of belly, snappy enoki mushrooms, crunchy bok choy, a delicate soft-boiled egg, and a strip of nori seaweed riding up the side of the bowl to deepen the aroma and flavor. Add a squirt of Korean spice for extra cold-slaying warmth.
- Craig LaBan

Pork ramen noodle soup, $13 (lunch) or $15 (dinner), Doma, 1822 Callowhill St., 215-564-1114; www.domarestaurant.com.