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The best sushi, right to your door | Let’s Eat

Two restaurants offer South Philly flair, there’s a new cocktail bar from Tacconelli’s, and one of Center City’s oldest bars is for sale.

Kiki Aranita

Restaurants are stepping up their delivery sushi. Here are our favorites downtown.

Also in this edition:

  1. To Japan, with love: Chef Jesse Ito took his first trip to Japan with his father, Matt. Craig LaBan, with photographer Monica Herndon, describes the remarkable journey and the food they found.

  2. South Philly flair: Get inside the revival of Bomb Bomb Bar and check out the new Piccolina.

  3. News: A brouhaha over a beer festival, Tacconelli’s opens a cocktail bar, and one of the city’s oldest bars goes on the market.

Mike Klein

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With the gap narrowing between casual sushi joints and upscale omakase, Kiki Aranita set out to find the best delivery sushi in downtown Philly. These nine restaurants are clearly on a roll.

🏯 Chef Jesse Ito and his father, Matt, flew to Japan for a rare bonding trip, exploring markets, family roots, and the traditions that shaped Royal Sushi & Izakaya. Craig LaBan and Monica Herndon tagged along to share an inside look.

🍜 If you toured Japan for nine days with a chef and a food critic, here’s where you might eat.

This Saturday, there will be two beer festivals with identical-sounding names. Beatrice Forman reports that Philly Bierfest wants the New York-rooted Philly Beer Fest to stop confusing customers.

Vince Tacconelli opens a cocktail bar Wednesday. Although Bar Tacconelli is not a pizzeria, he figures at least he and his South Jersey neighbors won’t have to cross the bridge to Philly for a fun night out.

Flakely, the gluten-free bakery, has opened a shop in Bryn Mawr, as Denali Sagner reports, bringing its pastries front and center after toiling in a commercial kitchen in Manayunk.

Follow the food team’s travels: tasty spanakopita, scallops and burrata, and a clam pizza that brought beach vibes to Center City.

Scoops

After five years behind the smoked-fish counter at Biederman’s in South Philadelphia, Gene Mopsik has moved on. The food maven and erstwhile commercial photographer known as @phillyloxsmith says he lost most of his hours after three spinal surgeries in 14 months. With retirement not an option at age 77, he has started what he calls a small-batch food project. On the eve of Purim, he’s baking hamentashen — poppy, prune, and apricot. Preorders (six for $22) at phillyloxsmith.com should be available through Thursday for pickup Sunday. “I need to stay busy,” Mopsik said. “There’s something about people enjoying what you create.”

Monto is the name of the pub that the Fergie’s Pub crew is planning to open in Old City this spring. Sandwich meister N.A. Poe is planning a Celtic-Philly menu.

Blue Sunday, an American-Asian restaurant out of Maryland (there’s a location in Bensalem), is planning a September opening in the former Carrabba’s Italian Grill space at Springfield Mall. It’s also headed into the former Famous Dave’s location at Christiana Town Center in Delaware.

Restaurant report

For his latest review, critic Craig LaBan ties on a lobster bib at Bomb Bomb Bar to dig into chef Joey Baldino’s revival of the classic red-gravy bar.

The oxtail lasagna is one of the rustic South Philly-inspired dishes on the menu at Piccolina, a cozy, new bar-restaurant at the Society Hill Hotel in Old City.

Briefly noted

Charlotte Ann Albertson, whose cooking school helped launch many careers (remember Chef Tell?), has died at 90. Here’s her obit.

Philadelphians are annoying, unfriendly, and stressed. But, as Emily Bloch reports, we have the best sandwiches, according to an analysis of how ChatGPT views the city.

Cherry Street Tavern, one of Center City’s oldest bars, is for sale as the owners want to hang up their aprons. “There’s just something sacred about the place,” one bartender told Mike Newall.

Restaurant weeks in progress: Queen Village/Bella Vista (through Sunday) and East Passyunk (through March 6).

The Philly Chef Conference will host restaurateur Drew Nieporent (Nobu, Tribeca Grill) for a talk/book-signing at 5:30 p.m. Monday at Drexel University’s Academic Bistro (101 N. 33rd St.). In convo with Inquirer food writer Kiki Aranita, Nieporent will discuss his new memoir, I’m Not Trying to Be Difficult: Stories From the Restaurant Trenches. Admission ($25) includes a signed copy of the book (free for students); a light reception will follow. Register here.

Pita Chip, the Middle Eastern fast-casual chainlet, will mark its first year at the Concourse at Comcast Center with free chicken shawarma or falafel entrees from 11 a.m.-2 p.m. March 3. Limit one per person.

Panda Fest, the outdoor Asian food and culture festival, is returning to Dilworth Park April 18-19 for its second year. Early-bird ticket sales start Thursday.

Dig Inn, a farm-to-table fast-casual chain, has set March 13 for its opening at 112 S. 11th St. It’s previewing with a food-drive exchange on March 11 and 12; those who donate a canned good or nonperishable food item get a free bowl in return. Reserve a time slot here. All donated items go across the street to Thomas Jefferson U’s Ramily Market Pantry.

❓Pop quiz

A regular crafted a replica of his favorite restaurant out of Lego bricks. Which one?

A) Pat’s King of Steaks

B) Friday Saturday Sunday

C) Buddakan

D) Famous 4th Street

Find out if you know the answer, and see a photo of it.

Ask Mike anything

I saw a restaurant online in the city with a dessert that was a carrot cake combination cheesecake. The cheesecake was on top of the carrot cake. Any idea where it could be? — Alan M.

I’m sure more than a few locals offer this hybrid; the key is finding one on the regular menu. There’s the Cheesecake Lady (in new quarters in Jenkintown, with Cloud Cups’ Kensington location as an outlet); Bredenbeck’s in Chestnut Hill; and the assorted Cheesecake Factory locations. Know of others? Let me know and I’ll include next week.

📮 Have a question about food in Philly? Email your questions to me at mklein@inquirer.com for a chance to be featured in my newsletter.

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