How to make a fantastic hoagie | Let’s Eat

Long before the roast pork sandwich – or even the cheesesteak – cemented Philadelphia’s spot in culinary history came the hoagie. Craig LaBan has found a destination in Fishtown that does them really well. Also this week: delicious Mexican food from a kitchen attached to that hoagie shop, plus the best in vegan Chinese food, tips from one of Philly’s top pastry chefs, and restaurant news.

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Critic Craig LaBan revisits that Philly classic, the hoagie, with a stop at Castellino’s Market in Fishtown. The sandwich-making secret? “Every element is thought of,” says co-owner Cara Jo Castellino. “Every placement of every meat goes in the same place evenly every time. Every bite must be the same.” Even the way you drizzle on the oil matters, she says. Iceberg lettuce? Arugula is spoken here, folks.

Speaking of Castellino’s Market: Every other Sunday, as Craig tells us, Mariana Hernandez and husband Julio Rivera turn out a beautiful array of sopes, tamales, tostadas, and the like from the window of the former water ice stand behind the shop. The collaboration is called Last Abuela. Tip: The next pop-up, on April 25, is almost sold out. Set a reminder for Tuesday, May 4, when ordering resumes.

It’s possible to find delicious vegan Chinese food, and staff writer Grace Dickinson runs down a list of spots in the Philly region for meat-free dumplings, dan dan noodles, and mapo tofu, along with Chinese American fare such as General Tso’s tofu and sesame “chicken.”

After Parc executive pastry chef Abby Dahan was idled last spring by the pandemic, she kept herself busy by teaching virtual baking classes. “My new purpose became how to make baking accessible,” Dahan told reporter Jen Ladd. Dahan is back in the kitchen and running the Bake School on the side.

Your restaurant is your baby — a long gestation followed by messy spills, fits of tears, and feelings of pride. It’s no easier coming up with a name for a flesh-and-blood newborn than it is for your life’s work. Sometimes, both babies carry the same name. From Angelo’s Pizzeria to Zachary’s BBQ, here are a few Philly restaurants that do just that. Plus a bonus: Did you know that Geno Vento was named after the cheesesteak shop on Passyunk Avenue?

Remember snuggling into the cozy Res Ipsa Cafe for some of the best Italian food in Philly before it shuttered in 2020? Michael Ferreri and his crew are set up in a roomy rooftop aerie at Irwin’s, on the 8th floor of the Bok building, with not only his bold, Sicilian-influenced food but a full wine and cocktail list. Sleeper dish: the fritto misto, which is a plate of light, crunchy rings of squid and addictive, sweet/tart fried lemon slices — yes, sliced lemons dredged in rice flour and cornstarch. Irwin’s renovated classroom dining room is not yet reopened, so you have to “settle” for the roof deck, which offers unparalleled southerly views of the sports complex and jet landings at Philadelphia International Airport. It’s open for dinner only Wednesday-Sunday. On the north side of the roof is Bok Bar, which in addition to drinks (starting at 5 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday) has a slate of chefs and programming.

What’s the hold-up with new restaurants and reopenings? Staffing issues. Combine the waiters and cooks who have left the business during the pandemic with restaurant workers who are collecting unemployment compensation, and the ranks are slim, for now. Among those opening slowly is Sor Ynez (1800 N. American St.). The sibling of South Philadelphia’s Cafe Ynez has rolled out with a limited menu for takeout and delivery 3-8 p.m. Wednesday-Friday, noon-8 p.m. Saturday, and noon-5 p.m. Sunday. Its handsome 50-seat dining room, designed around an ofrenda (a small altar) by Miguel Antonio Horn, as well as its outdoor seating, are on hold for now.

In addition to Cherry Street Pier, the 2021 warm-weather Penn’s Landing outdoor scene will include Morgan’s Pier (221 N. Columbus Blvd.), returning for its 10th season on Thursday, April 22. New chef is the well-traveled Waldemar “Val” Stryjewski (Prohibition Taproom, Lloyd Whiskey Bar, a.kitchen + a.bar, and Le Cheri), whose menu includes seafood (fried scallops and salmon crudo), snacks, small plates, flatbreads, sandwiches, sweets, and kids’ favorites, plus boozy popsicles in six flavors and beers from Philadelphia’s first Black-owned brewery, Two Locals Brewing. Thursday’s opening is at 4 p.m. Initial hours: Opening at noon, last seating at 9:30 p.m., kitchen closing at 10 p.m. and drink service closing at 11 p.m.

Reminder that Dine Latino Restaurant Week is May 5-9.

Bobby Flay Steak at Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa in Atlantic City will close after 15 years, effective June 30, in what both companies described as a mutual decision.

Filling you in on forthcoming restaurant openings: