Our favorite breakfast sandwiches | Let’s Eat

You could start the day with a bowl of cereal (or worse — nothing). But you can do much better. How about one of our favorite breakfast sandwiches?

Also in this edition:

— Mike Klein

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There’s no set formula for a perfect breakfast sandwich — let alone a perfectly Philadelphian one — but the city’s best have at least two things in common: Fresh bread that doesn’t collapse under the heft of their fillings, plus a sense of whimsy. Here are 17 options from all over.

Hearty soups and other stewy delights are the draws of Ddukbaegi in East Oak Lane, which critic Craig LaBan calls a rarity even in our vibrant Korean restaurant scene.

Yesterday may have been National Cheesesteak Day, but around here, it’s always cheesesteak day. Sink your teeth into Hira Qureshi’s coverage.

🤤A Guinness World Record was set yesterday at Philadelphia International Airport for the longest line of cheesesteaks, and Stephanie Farr was there.

🤤 With the Phillies’ home opening coming up tomorrow, Tommy Rowan counts five cheesesteaks worth bringing into Citizens Bank Park.

Beard Papa’s, a Japanese cream-puff specialist with a cult following, opens in Chinatown next week. Part of its secret, as Kiki Aranita explains: The custard filling is made with fresh vanilla beans scraped from pods, and not extract.

Kiki offers another Japanese import to consider: the growing influence of konbini — the ubiquitous Japanese convenience stores — on Philadelphia-area bar and restaurant menus. Take, for example, “7-11 French toast.”

The Food team has been out and about, eating octopus at a Center City bar, Liberian sweet potato greens in Africatown, and arancini in the Italian Market. We also found tacos worth an off-season trip to Cape May.

Tusk, from the owners of Roberts Block in Glenside and Bonnet Lane Family Restaurant in Abington, is planned for this summer at 50 N. Main St. in Doylestown, replacing Water’s Edge wine bar. Owner Mike Grafenstine said Tusk would draw on Roberts Block’s martini- and wine-bar sensibility while aiming for what he called approachable upscale American comfort food (i.e. creative starters, steak and seafood at dinner, plus sandwiches and other more casual options). The name is a nod to Tuscaloosa and the University of Alabama, which his children attended. He’s relocating and expanding the bar.

Rick’s Tavern will replace Pizza Time Saloon at Seventh Avenue and Maple Street in Conshohocken; May is the target. The backers, Rick and Gale Mahoney (owners of Kaede Sushi & Noodle Co., Guppy’s Good Times, and Tony & Joe’s), plan to serve Pizza Time-style pies, plus house-made pastas, wine, and cocktails. Chef Derek Davis, one of the pioneers of the Manayunk restaurant renaissance in the 1990s (Sonoma/Derek’s, Kansas City Prime, Arroyo Grille), is overseeing.

Tempo, a sports-bar/nightclub hybrid, has opened at 3601 Market St. in the University City space that previously housed Danlu, the Common, and Pace & Blossom. Steve Masterson, who owns similar venues in State College and Scranton, has centered his menu on Detroit-style pizza to supplement cocktails and beer. He’s brought in culinary director Steven Seibel, previously pizzaiolo at Hook & Master and Sonny’s Cocktail Joint. Above is the Pizzazz — a crispy-edged riff on the South Philly favorite with Cooper Sharp, sliced tomato, banana peppers, and minced garlic. The smash burgers, covered in double cheese, are the other main move. It’s a sports bar by day and, on Friday and Saturday nights, a nightclub with DJs taking advantage of the venue’s killer sound and light system. He plans to add late-night food on weekends, as well as trivia and other interactive programming on weeknights.

Tempo, 3601 Market St. Kitchen hours: noon-10 p.m. Wednesday-Monday. Closed Tuesday.

Rally in Bella Vista has joined the roster of coffee shops getting into the nonalcoholic cocktail game. Meredith Waldman, marking her 10th anniversary at Seventh and Bainbridge Streets with earlier openings (7 a.m.) and later closings (8 p.m. Thursday-Sunday), has added N/A cocktails and savory snacks after 4 p.m. Thursday-Sunday. New drinks include the Classic (spiced cherry bitters, club soda, and amarena cherry), Look Alive! (house shrub made of grapefruit, pear, habanero, honey, apple cider vinegar), and Joyride (a chinotto float with orange cream). Snacks include Castelvetrano olives, Inka corn, and lime and pink peppercorn chips; lupin beans with housemade chili oil, lime, and smoked salt; Pretzel Day Philly pretzels with dill mustard and pepperoncini kewpie aioli; affogato with Cuzzy’s ice cream (vegan available); and Liberty Kitchen’s tomato pie (Friday and Saturdays).

Wonder, the food-hall concept, is moving into Indian cuisine starting today with Dabba, a brand created in-house. Initially, the menu will be available at only King of Prussia, West Chester, Ambler, and Northeast Philadelphia locations; more will be added this summer. Offerings include samosas, chicken tikka masala, paneer tikka roll, kachumber, butter chicken, lamb vindaloo, and potato chaat. John Yi, Wonder’s chief culinary officer, said Dabba is aimed not only at South Asian diners but also at suburban customers who may have less access to Indian food nearby. “That’s the sweet spot for me,” Yi said. “Trying to bring something to people that they otherwise might not get.” The name and concept are inspired by the tradition of Mumbai’s dabbawallas, known for delivering home-cooked meals.

Val’s Lesbian Bar has arrived at Third and South Streets, joining queer-owned women’s sports bar Marsha’s just two blocks away amid a national resurgence of lesbian bars.

Northern Liberties has two newcomers: Terra Grill (shown above) at the Piazza Alta in Northern Liberties (1099 Germantown Ave.), a wood-fired grill from chef Laurent Tourdondel next to his Scusi Pizza next door, and Lucky Duck, a riverside tavern from Libertee Grounds’ owners Priyank Rambhia, Sanil Shah, Kanay Patel, and executive chef/partner Mike Metzger (owner of Sidecar Bar & Grille) at the Rivermark (501 N. Columbus Blvd.). Its bistro menu includes steak frites, crudo, and North Jersey-inspired pizzas by the slice.

Blueprint Cookies, a Florida chain with locations in Rittenhouse Square and Richboro, has rebranded to Cookie Head as it expands its line to include soft-serve ice cream and blended treats called Brain Freezes.

Amá in Kensington will host chef Oscar Torres of Mexico’s Michelin-starred restaurant Animalón on April 8 and 9 for seven-course tasting menus ($195pp). Reservations are via Resy.

La Scala’s Fire, the growing Italian chain, has a deal with Aramark that will bring about a dozen dishes to the menu at the Philadelphia Insurance Club (you know it as the Diamond Club) for Phillies games at Citizens Bank Park.

PopUp Bagels has arrived in the Philadelphia area. What is its slogan?

A) “Here we schmear”

B) “Round and round we go”

C) “Grip, rip, and dip”

D) “Hole lotta love”

Find out if you know the answer.

Last night at 8:35, we walked into a casual restaurant whose closing time was 9 p.m. The waiter said they couldn’t seat us because it was too late. Don’t hours matter? — Seth L.

At most restaurants, a posted closing time is when work is winding down, not when you should walk in and start a meal. Here, staff views 9 p.m. as the point when the kitchen is shutting down, the dining room is emptying, and closing work begins — especially nowadays when management wants to keep an eye on hourly payroll.

At most walk-in eateries, closing time does not mean the latest seating. It’s best to give the restaurant enough time to serve you without extending everyone’s night. A coffee shop may be more flexible, as may a more “mom-and-pop”-style restaurant where the owner is loath to turn away business. Full-service restaurants usually require more cushion, often at least 45 minutes. If you are cutting it close, call first.

“Why would you want to sit in a closed restaurant?” asks Ben Fileccia of the Pennsylvania Restaurant & Lodging Association. “If you go to Acme at 9:58 and they close at 10, they don’t say, ‘You made it just in time. Now you can shop for an hour and a half.’ They tell you the store is closing and please make your way to the register.”

📮 Have a question about food in Philly? Email your questions to me at mklein@inquirer.com for a chance to be featured in my newsletter.

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