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11 new pizzerias you should know about | Let’s Eat

Craig LaBan learns how to make a hoagie, a Chilean bakery opens, and the storied Cuzzy’s Ice Cream comes back.

Michael Klein / Staff

Our pizza scene is revving up. Let me slice it up for you.

Also in this edition:

  1. Confessions of a hoagie maker: What happened when Craig LaBan picked up a knife.

  2. Chilean bakery debuts: Folks are coming from far and wide for alfajores and empanadas.

  3. A game for you: You know Philly restaurants? Play Citywide Quest.

  4. Cuzzy’s is back: The Queen Village ice cream shop has a new home. Read on!

Mike Klein

Hey there. I goofed last week on some key dates. The print edition of The Inquirer’s 76 will be included in newspapers on Thursday, Nov. 13. The Inquirer’s Food Fest at the Fillmore in Fishtown is Saturday, Nov. 15. And while we’re at it: Tuesday, Nov. 18 is the unveiling of the 2025 Michelin Northeast Cities winners in an exclusive ceremony at the Kimmel Center.

If someone forwarded you this email, sign up for free here.

There’s been a recent bumper crop of fine new pizzerias in the city and suburbs. Let me tell you about the rustic grandma pies, the puffy Neapolitans, bar pizzas with verve, a gluten-free option, and even tasty slices sold out of a gas station.

🍕 Tip: Do not miss the drunken grandma pie at the new Anomalia Pizza in Fort Washington — or anything else on the menu.

Craig LaBan didn’t realize he was signing up for a hoagie-making contest. He realized he needed coaching, and learned from Philly’s very best.

Cote Tapia-Marmugi has opened Copihue Bakehouse in Montgomery County. It’s a sweet and savory tribute to her childhood in South America.

Play “Citywide Quest,” where we offer photos and you guess the location. You should ace this one, because this week’s quiz is restaurant-related.

Scoop

Cuzzy’s Ice Cream Parlor in Queen Village, which closed abruptly a year and a half ago, reopened last weekend at 762 S. Fourth St., two blocks from the previous shop, doling out such flavors as brown butter pecan, vanilla beans, chocolate cake, cinnamon apple streusel, pistachio biscotti, maple walnut pie, coffee, and grape sorbet. Watch Instagram for the shop’s hours.

Restaurant report

What’s tasty out there? In the current installment of “The Best Things We Ate This Week,” the Food team and friends chronicle their dining travels: Zorba’s for the shareable lamb platter (above), pasta from Fiorella, soft-serve from a brick-and-mortar Mr. Softee, and a smash burger that was so incredible, our correspondent forgot to photograph it.

Briefly noted

The Buttery’s Malvern flagship (233 E. King St.) will reopen Saturday after a redesign, an expansion from 18 seats to 62, and a new menu including pizza, tartines, sandwiches, and bowls. The first 100 customers Saturday will receive a free sable cookie with purchase.

Pica’s Restaurant, the Upper Darby landmark, will close its dining room after service Sunday, as it readies for its move to Broomall. The restaurant will remain open for takeout for the foreseeable future.

Philly Cider Week begins at 3 p.m. Sunday at the Headhouse shambles (Second and Lombard Streets) following Headhouse Farmers Market sales. Vendors will vend till 7 p.m.

Ange Branca, owner of South Philly’s Kampar, took to Instagram earlier this week with an update on repairs to the restaurant, idled since February by a fire. Water damage was extensive, she reports. Kampar will set up an ikan bakar (grilled-fish) market pop-up at Jet Wine Bar (1525 South St.) from 4-9 p.m. Sunday. Two ways to go: Pick your whole fish and sambal from the outdoor stand, where it will be priced by weight and prepared (walk-ins OK), or dine inside for dinners at 5:30 and 7:30 p.m. ($75pp) featuring five Malaysian fish dishes. Cocktails and wines available. Reservations are here.

Provenance (408 S. Second St.) will host an Oct. 29 collaboration dinner honoring the late chef Jim Burke and benefiting Twist Out Cancer, for which Burke’s wife and business partner, Kristina Benene Burke, works. Provenance chef-owner (and Burke disciple) Nicholas Bazik will be joined by chefs including Ron Mckinlay (formerly Canoe, Toronto), Alex Kemp (My Loup), Eli Collins (a. Kitchen), Evan Snyder (Emmett), Tim Dearing (Ule), Greg Heitzig (the Fountain Inn; former CDC of Pineapple & Pearls, Washington), as well as Provenance pastry chef Abby Dahan. It’s $395 per person (plus tax/gratuity/beverages) with all profits going to the foundation. Seatings in the wine cellar are available at 7 p.m., and at 5 and 8:30 p.m. upstairs.

Honeysuckle’s first wine-centered event will be a ticketed five-course dinner with André Mack and Maison Noire Wines on Oct. 30. It’s $175 per person, plus tax, tip, and fees). Tickets via OpenTable.

Opera Philadelphia will join Jean-Georges Philadelphia for a collaboration of music and food — a tasting menu interspersed with live performances — on Nov. 20. Details are here.

Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran of Safran Turney Hospitality (Barbuzzo, Bud & Marilyn’s, Darling Jack’s, etc.) were named to Out magazine’s 31st annual Out100 list. They’ll join fellow honorees Nov. 21 at the Out100 event at Nya Studios West in Hollywood.

❓Pop quiz

Old City’s Amada, chef Jose Garces’ flagship restaurant, marks its 20th anniversary this month. Can you name one of the restaurants where Garces was chef just before it opened?

A) ¡Pasion!

B) Alma de Cuba

C) Tequilas

D) Buddakan

Find out if you know the answer.

A bonus: Anyone remember the name of the restaurant that preceded Amada’s Old City location? Email me.

Ask Mike anything

What’s going on with High Note Caffe at 13th and Tasker? From the outside, it looks like it’s been ready to open for at least a few years now. — Caitlin D.

Owner Frank “Franco” Borda has taken his sweet time (four years!) converting his long-running restaurant into a supper club. It’ll be offering sporadic ticketed jazz and opera performances to start out. The first two dates, in early November, are sold out, but the next is Dec. 12. Here’s the calendar.

📮 Have a question about food in Philly? Email your questions to me at mklein@inquirer.com for a chance to be featured in my newsletter.

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