Philly lands 10 James Beard Award semifinalists for 2024

The lists of semifinalists for the 2024 James Beard Awards announced this morninginclude a mix of Philadelphia-area veterans and newcomers.

The new: My Loup, Amanda Shulman and Alex Kemp’s bustling bistro near Rittenhouse Square, is up for Outstanding New Restaurant, and Dionicio Jiménez of Cantina La Martina in Kensington, a previous nominee for Best Chef-Mid-Atlantic, is on the list for Outstanding Chef.

The (very) old: Isgro Pastries in South Philadelphia, marking its 120th anniversary this year, is a semifinalist for Outstanding Bakery.

And then there’s a mix of old and new: Yun Fuentes is on the Emerging Chef list for his work at Bolo, the Puerto Rican restaurant he opened with partners last year near Rittenhouse Square. Emerging, as in finally making his way to the top. Fuentes, 45, said today that he started in the business at age 14 or 15 at the McDonald’s in Cupey, in his native San Juan. He arrived in Philadelphia in 2001 with just a backpack to cook with celebrated chef Douglas Rodriguez at the old Alma De Cuba.

Rittenhouse Square’s a.kitchen+bar, co-owned by 2023 Outstanding Restaurateur Ellen Yin, is on the list for Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program, overseen by wine and service director Frank Kinyon and general manager Harry Jamison.

Five of the 20 semifinalists for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic are from the Philadelphia area: Carlos Aparicio of El Chingon in South Philadelphia, Dane DeMarco of Gass & Main in Haddonfield, Jesse Ito of Royal Sushi & Izakaya in South Philadelphia, Randy Rucker of River Twice in South Philadelphia, and Omar Tate and Cybille St. Aude-Tate of Honeysuckle Provisions of West Philadelphia.

» READ MORE: The numbers are in: Philadelphia’s restaurant scene is definitely having a moment.

The semifinalists lists will be winnowed to a slate of nominees that will be announced April 3. The awards ceremony will be held June 10 in Chicago.

The news was a “holy cannoli” moment for Isgro’s A.J. Sarno, 34, who with his brother Michael, 46, is the fourth generation in charge of the Italian Market-area bakery. He called the semifinalist nod “very flattering. It’s tough to put into words, honestly. This is years of just continuing to do what we do and maintain the quality and standards that my great-grandfather insisted upon.”

Sarno said he was not sure why Isgro suddenly made the Beard’s radar, but noted that he collaborated on a crab Rangoon cannoli with Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon of Kalaya, who won in 2023 for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic. Kalaya was located around the corner before its move to Fishtown.

The James Beard Foundation, which administers the awards, will return to the Philadelphia Museum of Art on March 12 with its Taste America culinary series, which showcases 20 chef teams from across the country championing the foundation’s mission of Good Food for Good.

The 2024 event, featuring 16 food and beverage stations, will be hosted by chef Jezabel Careaga from Jezabel’s and visiting chef Patricia Estorino from Gustazo Cuban Kitchen & Bar in Boston.

Some semifinalists are among the locals due to participate, including My Loup’s Shulman and Kemp, Cantina La Martinez’s Jiménez, and River Twice’s Rucker.

Also due to cook are Alexandra Holt (Roxanne), Andrew Henshaw (Laser Wolf), Carolyn Nguyen (Revolution Taco), Hoon Rhee (Stir at Philadelphia Museum of Art), Muhammad Abdul-Hadi and chef Michael Carter (Down North Pizza), and Sofia Deleon (El Merkury). Information, including ticket sales ($200 and $250 per person), is here.

(Disclosure: Some current Inquirer staff members have served on or are part of the James Beard Awards voting body.)