54 beers you can pour yourself | Let’s Eat

It’s the dog days of summer out there, so why not check out a beer or two from the 54 available at new spot Tapster? Speaking of dogs: this week we report on a pup-centric charity menu to benefit animal welfare. Plus, the winner of the Herr’s chip flavor competition revealed, an update on Sweet Amalia, and what the heck is “sea slaw”? Our newsletter is going out a little late today, with apologies from the food staff, who had some wires crossed. Look for it in your inbox next Wednesday as usual.

⬇️ Read on for a quiz and restaurant news.

— Mike Klein

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With 54 self-service taps and a novel approach to bar food, Tapster has opened in Center City. Seating is on swings, there’s a photo booth, and even the restrooms are unconventional. Each is decorated to honor the Phillies, Eagles, Flyers, and Sixers. You’ll notice stickers for rival teams affixed inside the toilet bowls.

Looking to beat the lingering heat? Try Mural City Cellars’ wine garden in Kensington, where reporter Jenn Ladd recommends the skin-contact pinot gris to help cool you down, along with their signature frosé. There’s also live music.

Herr’s Flavors of Philly contest has ended, and the tomato pie-flavored chips inspired by Corropolese Italian Bakery’s signature product outpolled the Korean barbecue-inspired chips based on Mike’s BBQ’s wing recipe and the roast pork chips reflecting the flavor of John’s Roast Pork. What’s “tomato pie,” anyway? And for that matter, how do you say “Corropolese”?

Double Nickel Brewing Co. in Pennsauken is taking steps to become a brewpub, which means it will add food. Chefs/friends Dylan Sambalino (a former chef de cuisine at Hearthside in Collingswood) and Dylan Sweeney (an alum of Cadence in Kensington and Talula’s Table in Kennett Square) will be staffing the oven, expected to open late this year. As for the pizza creation above, it’s chicken wings served atop a pizza crust. Sambalino said the idea is to grab a wing, take a slice of pizza, and make a mess.

A pho shop, Pho Banh Mi Saigon, is on the way to 910 Christian St., next to Roxanne in the Italian Market. Expect it to open in October or November.

There’s been a spate of corner bars changing hands. Last week, the low-key Meetinghouse opened where Memphis Taproom was on Cumberland Street in Kensington. Soon, the second location of Fairmount sushi favorite Umai Umai will fill the former Modo Mio on Fifth Street in Queen Village, as I told you last week.

Now I’ll tell you about Töska, which has filled the three-level Earth Bread + Brewery space at Durham Street and Germantown Avenue in Mount Airy (pizza oven and brewery are down below, bar at street level, dining room and a second bar upstairs).

Töska, named after the Albanian dialect, is backed by the three Osmanollaj brothers, whose family left Kosovo in 2000 and who also own the M2O Burgers mini-chain. Like Earth Bread, Töska is also a brewery (Stickman Brews alum Brendan Breslin with four house beers) and offers a full menu, including wood-fired pizza (gluten-free available), from chef Rich Dobies. Pay attention to the Korean BBQ pizza, topped with short rib, Cheddar & smoked Gouda, caramelized onion, and chili crisp, with cilantro on top of a puffy, gorgeously blistered crust. There’s brunch on weekends, with a supplemental menu of waffles, egg dishes, and the like.

Töska, 7136 Germantown Ave. Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.- midnight Friday and Saturday. Happy hour: 4-6 p.m. Monday-Friday, and 10 p.m.-midnight Friday and Saturday.

New restaurants

Don Barriga Mexican Grill, out of West Philadelphia, has opened a second location, at 703 Chestnut St.

Starbolt, the bar, restaurant, and event space from the team behind The Goat Rittenhouse, Garage, Heritage, and Vintage Wine Bar, is now targeting an Aug. 30 opening at 1936 N. Front St.

Greenstreet Coffee Co., a branch of Greenstreet Coffee Roasters, is planning giveaways for the Sept. 8 grand opening of its shop at 1205 S. 15th St.

In case you missed it: Enswell, a collab between Rival Bros. coffee and New Liberty distillery, opened last week at 1528 Spruce St. with coffee, cocktails, and small plates.

Kindle Burrows started making seafood platters in her West Oak Lane home after being let go from her school district job in 2017. Then came the pandemic, spiking her business. Then came an Inquirer article. Business blew up — and then city inspectors showed up.

Now, Burrows’ business is legit. Pleasure Platters, a takeout, opened last month at 5912 Old York Rd., just off Broad Street in the city’s Ogontz neighborhood. Top seller is the platter number 7A, a meal for about two hungry people: two 9-ounce snow-crab clusters, six colossal shrimp, and a half-pound of New Zealand mussels, plus an ear of corn, steamed broccoli, and roasted potatoes, for $46.

The lobster bisque, rich with pieces of lobster, comes with fried pita for dipping. Fried platters come with “sea slaw,” a coleslaw studded with whole shrimp, crab meat, imitation crab, cabbage, seasonings, and mayo. Eat it alongside the order, or buy a container, spread it on a roll (potato, in my case), and turn it into a sandwich.

Pleasure Platters, 5912 Old York Rd. Hours: noon-9 p.m. Thursday-Saturday, 1-9 p.m. Sunday.

Catch the remainder of Burlington County Restaurant Week, with all kinds of specials through Saturday.

Sweet Amalia, the acclaimed seafood market in Newfield, N.J., is open only for takeout as it sorts out zoning issues.

Royal Boucherie is reviving its pre-pandemic charity hotdog cooking competition that pits area chefs against one another. Dogs on the Deck comes off from 6-9 p.m. Thursday, and a portion of proceeds will benefit Philadelphia Animal Welfare Society (PAWS). Competitors: Val Stryjewski representing Royal Boucherie, Nic Macri representing Khyber Pass Pub, Chad Durkin representing Porco’s Porchetteria, Eli Milligan representing Rosemary, and Adam Volk representing Redcrest Kitchen.

The Inquirer’s tipping guide suggests leaving how much to a barista?

A) 10%

B) 15%

C) 20%

D) the nearest $5

Find out if you know the answer.

You can’t ask Mike anything this week. He’s on vacation.

📮 Have a question about food in Philly? E-mail your questions to mklein@inquirer.com and he’ll get to them when he’s back.

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