Craig LaBan finds ‘thrilling’ Mexican flavors | Let’s Eat

This week is a mixed bag of foodstuff. On the happy side: Critic Craig LaBan raves about a Mexican restaurant in Kensington, Termini Bros. has opened a dessert cafe, and we’re getting a new board game restaurant in Ardmore. On the sad side: We look back on the lives of a restaurateur and a popular baker, and it appears that Distrito has closed.

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But first, a quiz: Convenience-store giant Wawa has collaborated with Cape May Brewing Co. on a beer. (Colleague Stephanie Farr warns: “As soon as you pull out anything that says Wawa and ABV on the same can, people from Delco are bound to find you, so be prepared.”)

What’s the beer called?

A. Hoagiemouth

B. Shore Tea

C. Cawfee Tawk

D. Gottahava

Take a guess and read all about it.

📝 Send me tips, suggestions and questions here.

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— Mike Klein

Chef Dionicio Jimenez, an unsung hero while at such restaurants as El Rey, Xochitl, and Vetri, has made his ownership debut (at age 47) in a troubled part of Kensington. Cantina La Martina is a potential game changer, critic Craig LaBan writes, adding that Dio is “delivering the most thrilling Mexican flavors in the city.” 🔒

The second half of the Phillies season begins Friday night at Citizens Bank Park, and 2022 just might be the best season ever for ballpark food in Philly. At least three new menu items have elevated concessionaire Aramark’s game: the burnt-ends cheesesteak at Bull’s BBQ; the PBJ burger in Boardwalk Eats at Section 142; and Manco & Manco’s Pizza in its stand at Ashburn Alley.

The “cheesesteak,” a version of brisket sandwiches served at fine eateries such as Mike’s BBQ, layers creamy cheese sauce atop smoky brisket nubs on a roll. The burger has a lot going on, confirming the surprising genius of combining peanut butter (salty and smooth), jalapeño jelly (spicy), American cheese (creamy), and bacon (smoky) on one sandwich. And to no one’s surprise, the thin-crust Manco & Manco pies, in its rookie season, have been a sales hit. Each game, Aramark turns out 1,000 of the 12-inchers for seat holders plus a couple of hundred 18-inchers for the suites. It’s the same recipe and “sauce hose” technique that Manco’s has used for decades at the Jersey Shore.

One other note: A funny thing happened on the way to the ballpark. Thanks to inflation, the real world has pretty much caught up to concession-stand prices. The 12-inch pizza is $13.99 for a cheese, $15.49 with toppings. The PBJ burger is $13.99 and the BBQ sandwich is $15.99. Beer prices are still way out in left field, though.

The Termini family’s bakery on Eighth Street in South Philadelphia has a new dessert cafe right across the street, in what was Mr. Joe’s Cafe. Brothers Joseph and Vincent Termini Jr. set it up as Nonna & Pop’s, in honor of their parents, Vincent Sr. and Barbara. Menu includes Bassetts ice cream, La Colombe coffee, and delicate filled pastries exclusive to the shop.

Artisan Boulanger Patissier cofounder Andre Chin died last weekend at 65 after a long battle with cancer. He and his wife, Amanda Eap, won over their neighborhood 20 years ago with fine pastries and baguettes — and their hearts.

Ralph’s has been on Ninth Street in South Philly for more than a century, and for nearly eight decades the Italian restaurant was the workplace of Ralph Dispigno Jr., grandson of the founder. “Uncle Ralphie,” who worked six days a week well into his late 80s, died last weekend at 93.

What’s a pip? In this case, it is not one of Gladys Knight’s sidekicks but the name of a dot on dice. A typical gaming die has 21 pips on its six sides, and so Matt Hendricks has named his new board game-themed restaurant Twenty One Pips. A companion to his Thirsty Dice in Philadelphia, it opens this week in Ardmore with a bar, a serious menu, and 500-plus games that you can play at your table.

We’ve revved up the wayback machine to reflect on the Philadelphia-area restaurants we miss for a new series called The 86′d Project. Last week’s premiere was the Bynum brothers’ jazz destination Zanzibar Blue, whose 27-year run brought back memories for staff and patrons.

It also prompted me to dig into my matchbook collection, where I found one from Cypress, the restaurant that preceded ZB on 11th Street.

Meanwhile, you’ve generously filled my inbox with suggestions of restaurants that deserve the 86′d treatment. I’m not identifying August’s subject, only to say that its soup and burgers were a hit for 20 years from Allentown to Delaware. Stay tuned.

In case you missed it, the Zanzibar Blue reminiscence is here. 🔒

There are Jersey farmstands and then there is Sweet Amalia, a shack on Route 40 in rural Gloucester County. Lisa Calvo and Ed Pappas sell Jersey’s finest — not just produce and local products but oysters and clams harvested from its fields in the bay waters off Cape May, about an hour away.

It would be a true clam-ity if you didn’t stop for chef Melissa McGrath’s menu, for which there is indoor-outdoor seating. Among the pearls: the sweet-and-crunchy clam roll (above) with bacon, lettuce, and horseradish and dill cream sauce, and the steamed littlenecks with green chorizo and tomatillo in broth with buttered toast (below). Though it tastes like summer, they intend to stay open well into the fall.

Have a minute and a half? Check out our video of Amalia’s.

Need a farmer’s market at the Jersey Shore? My colleague Michelle Myers runs them down.

Sweet Amalia Market & Kitchen, 994 Harding Highway, Newfield. Hours: 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday and Thursday; 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Friday; 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Saturday; and 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Sunday. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.

Briefly noted

Distrito’s 14-year run in University City could have ended, as Jose Garces has closed it, at least for now. Economics.

Hot enough for you? Here are some ideas to help you cope.

Speaking of steaming: The Center City location of Korean snack house Crunchik’n (211 S. 11th St.) has started serving steamed dumplings (chicken, pork, veggie — with kimchi and shrimp possibly up next).

On the calendar

Friday, July 22: Primal Supply Meats and Harper’s Ice Cream will set up on the 1700 block of Fairmount Avenue from 5-7 p.m. with hot dogs and bacon wiz wit dogs made with Frizwit cheese sauce and served on Merzbacher buns.

Saturday, July 23: Baker/teacher Zach Posnan (Brass Monkey Bread Co.) will pop up at Alchemy Coffee (119 S. 21st St.) with sourdough loaves, cookies, focaccia, and scones, plus stuffed pretzels. Posnan gives plenty of products and proceeds to charity, and you might say he’s having a boule doing it.

Thursday, July 28: Get a rare look inside Karamoor Winery in Fort Washington for a tour of the vineyards, grounds, and winery. Includes wine-tastings and charcuterie and cheese boards for $75 per person. Runs from 3-6 p.m.

Sunday, July 31: South Philly Barbacoa and Casa Mexico are hosting a block party starting at 3 p.m. on the 1100 block of South Ninth Street.

Delicious, rustic sandwiches made in-house (the bread and the meats) are the draw at Heavy Metal Sausage in South Philly, which is where we found @mikeprince85 and a very attentive Izzy. In Fishtown meanwhile, @insta__pang drops a rave over the cacio e pepe discounted to $13 on Kensington Quarters’ happy-hour menu.

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